Trick to removing back clutch plates?
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Tourer
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 328
Likes: 64
From: Nashville, TN
Trick to removing back clutch plates?
Started on my clutch replacement project this morning.
Got the diaphragm and pressure plate removed and the outer half of friction & steel plates, and then the spring plate. (It had one loose rivet that fell out immediately after I pulled it)
Is there a trick to getting the back half of friction & steel plates out? Doesn't really seem to be an easy way to get a grip on them. Clutch shell and hub are still on the bike--manual doesn't say to remove them, but would that make it easier?
Got the diaphragm and pressure plate removed and the outer half of friction & steel plates, and then the spring plate. (It had one loose rivet that fell out immediately after I pulled it)
Is there a trick to getting the back half of friction & steel plates out? Doesn't really seem to be an easy way to get a grip on them. Clutch shell and hub are still on the bike--manual doesn't say to remove them, but would that make it easier?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 328
Likes: 64
From: Nashville, TN
Thanks--dental picks is a great idea. I tried with my fingernails already and made zero progress.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 328
Likes: 64
From: Nashville, TN
Finally got 'em out with a couple precision screwdrivers.
Found 3 more pieces of rivets, too. Glad I'm changing these things out now before I ended up stranded somewhere.
Next thing:
I ordered an aftermarket (Drag Specialties) die-cast pressure plate in case I needed it. I don't see anything wrong with the original...
Are those known to go? Should I replace it as long as I'm here or return the one I bought?
Anything else I should be looking for while it's opened up?
Found 3 more pieces of rivets, too. Glad I'm changing these things out now before I ended up stranded somewhere.
Next thing:
I ordered an aftermarket (Drag Specialties) die-cast pressure plate in case I needed it. I don't see anything wrong with the original...
Are those known to go? Should I replace it as long as I'm here or return the one I bought?
Anything else I should be looking for while it's opened up?
Last edited by rainsong; Mar 8, 2018 at 03:58 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,072
From: Brighton, MI
Are you completely deleting the spring plate and using extra clutch and steel plates to take up the gap?
In my opinion, if the original pressure plate is good, keep using it. YD
In my opinion, if the original pressure plate is good, keep using it. YD
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Tourer
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From: Nashville, TN
Yep. I've got a Barnett +1 kevlar kit.
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From: Bedford UK
Are they? Yes! When I installed my Barnett +1 kit a while ago I found my pressure plate was starting to break up. That was a bit of a shock! So at least check yours closely. It looks like a die casting, which in my case had started to fracture in several places. I didn't keep it, so can't show what it was up to.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2016
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From: Nashville, TN
One more question:
Barnett instructions say to remove "ALL existing Plates, Damper Seat & Spring or Spring Plate"...
I don't see anything in my manual about a Damper Seat & Spring, and there doesn't seem to be anything else behind where the plates were. Since the instructions say "OR Spring Plate", that makes me think there wouldn't be both in there.
Am I right about that? Just trying to not do anything stupid.
Barnett instructions say to remove "ALL existing Plates, Damper Seat & Spring or Spring Plate"...
I don't see anything in my manual about a Damper Seat & Spring, and there doesn't seem to be anything else behind where the plates were. Since the instructions say "OR Spring Plate", that makes me think there wouldn't be both in there.
Am I right about that? Just trying to not do anything stupid.