* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
I'm not a big fan of chrome, but I do feel like all black is too much also. So what I like to do is pick out thesshiny parts I want to keep and use a course scotch brite to scuff up the chrome and give it more of a stainless brushed look. Plus there's no more polishing, if its dirty hit with more scotch brite. And costs around $3
Last edited by soldierbot; Apr 2, 2021 at 07:46 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Alberta Canada
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
I get a lot of questions about my skateboard wheel shifter. Note that this mod leaves the wheels in their free-spinning condition.
Parts needed.
This first picture is a stack-up of the assembly items for reference. Note that a bearing is partially pushed into one side of each wheel.
Using hand pressure, push a bearing into each side of each wheel. Make sure to install a spacer in between the two bearings. It helps to use the bolt as an alignment tool.
Using the bolt, a couple of extra spacers, a 1/2" wrench and a 1/2" socket wrench, tighten the shown assembly until the bearings are pressed into the wheels. Excessive force is not required, but tighten until the you feel the nut get tight. Repeat this process for the second wheel.
This photo shows the final assembly stack-up.
Stack everything as shown in the previous photo and this photo. Tighten the assembly using blue Loctitie on the nut. Be careful to not use too much so that Loctitie doesn't enter the bearing races. Don't be afraid to tighten it snug. The spacers and inner bearing raced are taking the load.
Parts needed.
- Two standard skateboard wheels. I prefer wheels with 52mm diameter or less.
- Four skate wheel bearings.
- Three skate wheel spacers (5/16" ID x 10mm OD)
- One 5/16" x 24 bolt (3" length is usually good but some wheels are different width. Some experimentation may be required.)
- One 5/16" x 24 nut.
- One 5/16" ID by 1/2" OD washer.
- Blue Loctite.
This first picture is a stack-up of the assembly items for reference. Note that a bearing is partially pushed into one side of each wheel.
Using hand pressure, push a bearing into each side of each wheel. Make sure to install a spacer in between the two bearings. It helps to use the bolt as an alignment tool.
Using the bolt, a couple of extra spacers, a 1/2" wrench and a 1/2" socket wrench, tighten the shown assembly until the bearings are pressed into the wheels. Excessive force is not required, but tighten until the you feel the nut get tight. Repeat this process for the second wheel.
This photo shows the final assembly stack-up.
Stack everything as shown in the previous photo and this photo. Tighten the assembly using blue Loctitie on the nut. Be careful to not use too much so that Loctitie doesn't enter the bearing races. Don't be afraid to tighten it snug. The spacers and inner bearing raced are taking the load.
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Part two.
The final assembly should look like this. Note that you cannot see the nut on the left side.
IMPORTANT. You want approximately 1/2" of thread protruding from the nut so you will have sufficient threads to install the assembly to the shift lever.
Assembly installed on motorcycle. This is not different than installing a normal shift peg. Use blue Loctite during the installation.
The final assembly should look like this. Note that you cannot see the nut on the left side.
IMPORTANT. You want approximately 1/2" of thread protruding from the nut so you will have sufficient threads to install the assembly to the shift lever.
Assembly installed on motorcycle. This is not different than installing a normal shift peg. Use blue Loctite during the installation.
