* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Canada
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Some more great mods here on Pg 11.
I haven't been getting the email updates from the site
when this thread is updated,
so I figured I better leave a comment here.
I'd hate to miss out on a good one!
I haven't been getting the email updates from the site
when this thread is updated,
so I figured I better leave a comment here.
I'd hate to miss out on a good one!
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
x2lee,
Not exactly sure how the bottom of your frame looks.
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
I just swiped the image from an electrical supply web site, but it gives you and idea of what I mean. If you can find a couple that have the rubber or plastic protector over the metal like the one pictured. It should keep it from screwing up the powdercoating on the frame tubes.
Not exactly sure how the bottom of your frame looks.
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
I just swiped the image from an electrical supply web site, but it gives you and idea of what I mean. If you can find a couple that have the rubber or plastic protector over the metal like the one pictured. It should keep it from screwing up the powdercoating on the frame tubes.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
I keep a variety of sizes on hand, they work in lots of applications.
They are available from Summit Racing,
or, Earl's Performance Plumbing.
Aluminum color or blue or red.
mud
.
.
got lucky these turn signal wires didn't touch each other after rubbing through:
.
.
WON"T HAPPEN AGAIN:
.
.
.
Last edited by mud; Jan 17, 2020 at 06:20 AM.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,349
Likes: 2
From: Appling GA
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
I have 2 of those that came with the airdam, but I cut the dam to fit tight around the footstand and it just takes one allen in the front
downtube crossmember to take the dam off. I would like to figure a way to do the same with the skid... easyon/easyoff.
I have tommorow off I am going to have a look and see then.
downtube crossmember to take the dam off. I would like to figure a way to do the same with the skid... easyon/easyoff.
I have tommorow off I am going to have a look and see then.
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Yeah Frank, they're called Adel Clamps, or, cushioned tubing clamps.
I keep a variety of sizes on hand, they work in lots of applications.
They are available from Summit Racing,
or, Earl's Performance Plumbing.
Aluminum color or blue or red.
mud
got lucky these turn signal wires didn't touch each other after rubbing through:
WON"T HAPPEN AGAIN:
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
But instead of only one bolt for the back end.
Why not use a pair of cable clamps around the frame tubes on either side?
Something like this?
I keep a variety of sizes on hand, they work in lots of applications.
They are available from Summit Racing,
or, Earl's Performance Plumbing.
Aluminum color or blue or red.
mud
got lucky these turn signal wires didn't touch each other after rubbing through:
WON"T HAPPEN AGAIN:
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Well it was an idea. Might not have been a great idea, but I had to toss it out.
They could still work if you used them as a semi permenent attachement point.
Use a pair of them to hold aflat piece of steelwith a nut or something weldedin the middle.
That would let you put it wherever you like and still have your one screw attachment.
If you want to attach it with a screw in front only.Just use them with a piece of U-channel, or couple of shouldered screws/bolts with a matching slot on the plate. To slip the rear edge into.
They could still work if you used them as a semi permenent attachement point.
Use a pair of them to hold aflat piece of steelwith a nut or something weldedin the middle.
That would let you put it wherever you like and still have your one screw attachment.
If you want to attach it with a screw in front only.Just use them with a piece of U-channel, or couple of shouldered screws/bolts with a matching slot on the plate. To slip the rear edge into.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,349
Likes: 2
From: Appling GA
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
That might work! If I dont see a better way while eyeballing it, I can drill 2 holes closer to the part that wraps around the frame with a stainless washer in the middle to keep it open enough to slide the edges of the plate inside maybe 3/4 of an inch. I could still remove it with the single front allenb and leave those on the bike. I can turn them under and inwards and they would be invisible if I use black ones...
I have been thinking all day of a cool but not tacky shapeinstead of just square...
I have been thinking all day of a cool but not tacky shapeinstead of just square...
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Well it was an idea. Might not have been a great idea, but I had to toss it out.
They could still work if you used them as a semi permenent attachement point.
Use a pair of them to hold aflat piece of steelwith a nut or something weldedin the middle.
That would let you put it wherever you like and still have your one screw attachment.
If you want to attach it with a screw in front only.Just use them with a piece of U-channel, or couple of shouldered screws/bolts with a matching slot on the plate. To slip the rear edge into.
Well it was an idea. Might not have been a great idea, but I had to toss it out.
They could still work if you used them as a semi permenent attachement point.
Use a pair of them to hold aflat piece of steelwith a nut or something weldedin the middle.
That would let you put it wherever you like and still have your one screw attachment.
If you want to attach it with a screw in front only.Just use them with a piece of U-channel, or couple of shouldered screws/bolts with a matching slot on the plate. To slip the rear edge into.
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
I would still use the cross piece on top as it wouldprevent engine and road vibrations from letting the clamps rotate out of alignment even if the plate was removed.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,349
Likes: 2
From: Appling GA
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Im not sure what you are meaning here. here is a diagram of what i am thinking.
hey I know its not CAD...
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/1810595FDF5148F0A9F4EF83E257B16D.jpg[/IMG]
hey I know its not CAD...
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
I would still use the cross piece on top as it wouldprevent engine and road vibrations from letting the clamps rotate out of alignment even if the plate was removed.
I would still use the cross piece on top as it wouldprevent engine and road vibrations from letting the clamps rotate out of alignment even if the plate was removed.
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
just noticed that some of the photo's were gone from my earlier posts and went to photo bucket to put them back and they were gone from there too???? anyone know why this happens and how to prevent?