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Yes I did miss Varmint's contribution to the thread. Thanks for pointing that out. I guess having 2 people describing how to do it has a way of making it more clear what is involved in the process.
Your tank is looking great Mud. I wish I had more time to get going on mine. You know... instead of posting I could be out in the garage building a bike. GET OFF YOUR *** RD! ! ![:@]
I think that thread is why I made my own Tank lift. I just used some of the same brackets I had left over to move my head light up and out about an inch and a half.
HOGRIDA, below are a couple pix of the mudSicklelicense bracket (underside).
will the "PEM" studs work alright in this application??
The four license holes penetrate doubled up .062 stock.
Red arrow below shows that one of the penetrations
is very near an edge.
mud........
Looks like you'll be alright. The PEM fastener book asks for the center of the hole be no less than .312" to the egge of the part. Pressing into doubled up 16 ga. shouldn't be a problem either. The hole size for a good press on a 1/4 - 20 stud should be .249" +.003" -.000". I f your holes are to big for a press fit, you could just weld um in.
How to polish Rotors and lower Legs: Rotors:
check this out! so with a bit of help from the people on here(xxxflhrci), he took off his rotors... got a drill attachement, then since they do not sell anything over 250 grit sand paper with the hook and loop adhesive on the back he just bought a bunch of 250 and then went to the paint section and got 500, 788, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 sanding paper sheets and cut them into circles and GLUED them to the 250s... (with some spray adhesive and let them set over night)then he just put those on the drill attachement... took him about a half hour per side once he got the hang of it... came out sick! we where told 1000x's as long as he is replacing his pads with Lyndal's he can polish the brake surface as well... so he did, and put on Lyndal pads... came out so so shiny! Pics are below. after he got done he used some polish and the smaller wheel ball and when to town, got a great mirror going and called it good!
Lower legs:
(got imput from so many people on here... thanks!)
spay them down with aircraft stripper (any auto parts store will have this) and let them sit for 1/2 hour, then start sanding! we hit it with 800 till it was smooth. then he used fine steelwool and polish. he would put the polish on the steel wool just like it was a rag and go to town... after a good 2 hours per leg they shined up like no bodys busn! came out great...
- I have seen these parts prob 50 times now and every time i just can not help myself to saying how good they look... the girl friend has even put her name down on the list of lower fork and rotor polishing that takes place next, and she is a die hard chrome person... just goes to show you... take your time and do it right and you will get great results
Tools needed: 1. polish, 2. sandpaper 250-1500, 3. orbital disk drill bit attachment, 4. orbital disk sanding paper disks, 5. spray bottle, 6. aircraft stripper (if doing forks NOT rotors), 7. wheel ball, 8. ultra fine steel wool, 9. shop rags
HOGRIDA, below are a couple pix of the mudSicklelicense bracket (underside).
will the "PEM" studs work alright in this application??
The four license holes penetrate doubled up .062 stock.
Red arrow below shows that one of the penetrations
is very near an edge.
mud........
Looks like you'll be alright. The PEM fastener book asks for the center of the hole be no less than .312" to the egge of the part. Pressing into doubled up 16 ga. shouldn't be a problem either. The hole size for a good press on a 1/4 - 20 stud should be .249" +.003" -.000". I f your holes are to big for a press fit, you could just weld um in.
Thanx for the info Brian.
Since I got my Texas laydown plate bracket from you,
I have been wanting to change the fasteners on this application.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
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