tank--lift..disassembly..doherty

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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Arrow tank--lift..disassembly..doherty

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Building a tank lift is a simple procedure.

Below, that is a one and three quarter inch block of wood
supporting the tank while I proceed.

With this type of lift, (tBone style), your can't go much lower,
maybe down to one and a half.
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Below, I started the fabrication with a length of one inch by eighth flat stock.
I will trim it down to three quarters wide.

Also shown here is a three inch long piece of
drawn over mandrel tubing, half inch OD, 5/16 ID.

The flat stock has been hammered into shape in the vise,
2 and seven eighth inch inside (roughly).
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Here below, I've fit, welded, and painted, and it is ready to install.
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I bend the tank bungs down slightly so the crossover line doesn't rub on the frame.
I use a long handle 5/16 box end wrench.
If you do this, do it very carefully.
Sometimes the paint will crack here, sometimes it doesn't.
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Below illustrates the clearance, and the unblemished paint.
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Last picture shows the finished product
on a brisk South Texas 65F afternoon.
Long sleeves for the test ride.
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Last edited by mud; May 2, 2022 at 08:37 PM.
Old Aug 8, 2008 | 05:41 PM
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http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/7...069a900lq0.jpg


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Last edited by mud; Aug 24, 2008 at 10:00 AM.
Old Aug 18, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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Default

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assddddssssssssss
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Originally Posted by CRZYLGZZ
Ok unload, this thread is quickly becoming overly technical lol for a pocedure that was surprisingly simple.

I'll say it again lol. I know what. The manual says, and I strongly suggest you follow it. My thread was simply a visual tutor to help someone visualize the job ahead of him. During my swap, I dint touch, unload TDC anything. . I simply unbolted, removed, reinstalled. And paid special attention to my bolt tihhtening pattern and my torquing. All the other technical TDC valve compression, unloading etc....was never an issue.

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Originally Posted by Billy Blaze
Just WoW....I am afraid to say anything else.

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Last edited by mud; Oct 13, 2010 at 05:08 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #4  
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....recently a few folks have asked me about fuel filters.

........yes, replace them on a regular basis.........
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....have the 1331 screws on hand before you begin.........
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....then remove the dash and top plate...
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f?
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....not absolutely necessary to disconnect these fittings.....
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....next photo - on my machine I removed the restrictor. forever....
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....I like a clear view of the inside of the tank.....
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....easier to remove the fuel after the top plate is removed....
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....for filter change it's not necessary to remove all of the fuel....
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....have a look inside and see if the fuel lines are contacting the tank....
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....if they are, look for pinholes. if not, you're probably OK here.....
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....after I siphon all I can - I get the last little puddle out by sucking it up into a towel..
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....this next step is not needed for filter change....
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....when reinstalling the top plate tighten in the pattern shown in the manual....
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....I don't torque these. I watch the space between the tank and the plate....
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....snug them down good. do not overdo it.
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....now the fuel pump and float assembly is removed....
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....above - easier for me to remove the fuel line by demounting the pump assembly first....
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........next step - you see I am squeezing the two black lock tabs....
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....the bottom one is always stubborn for me....
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....don't rush it. lever GENTLY - if needed.........................
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....green oRing below is the seal for the fuel line....
 

Last edited by mud; Mar 10, 2014 at 05:29 PM.
Old Mar 10, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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....components below are not unbreakable....
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....do not rush it....
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....rotate lift tilt PAY ATTENTION....
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..............the filters........................
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....I like a light coat of white grease on this O-ring...............
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