Handlebar change.......with pics
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Handlebar change.......with pics
I'm in the middle of my bar change and some people wanted me to document some of it with pics. I'm not showing every step, but a lot of the ones that seem to intimidate home mechanics the most.
First I removed my existing bars and controls, throttle/idle cables and brake line. To unplug the wiring under the tank, I simple remove the rear tank torx bolt, undo the fuel line and remove the front tank bolt. I leave the crossover hose in place and slide the tank back......no need to drain it. This gives you access to the wiring harnesses as well as the throttle/idle cable.
and the left side as well.......note the routing of the throttle/idle cable.
First I removed my existing bars and controls, throttle/idle cables and brake line. To unplug the wiring under the tank, I simple remove the rear tank torx bolt, undo the fuel line and remove the front tank bolt. I leave the crossover hose in place and slide the tank back......no need to drain it. This gives you access to the wiring harnesses as well as the throttle/idle cable.
and the left side as well.......note the routing of the throttle/idle cable.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
My bar change requires all new longer cables and front brake line........replace the washers on the banjo bolts with new ones at the caliper and the master cylinder. 10mm washers at the caliper, 12mm at the MC.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
remove and replace the throttle and idle cables.......be careful to not kink the cables, and just reroute them under the tank the same way they came off. The cable end fits into a round slotted hole and routes back up through the throttle body bracket.......very simple.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Here the pipes are removed to access the transmission side cover or clutch actuator cover or whatever it's called. The cover screws are removed in a pattern foound in the service manual. If you don't have one they are well worth the money..........torque specs and step by step instructions are invaluable.
I place a half a milk jug to catch the transmission lube that will be lost when the cover comes off.
I place a half a milk jug to catch the transmission lube that will be lost when the cover comes off.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Here the clutch cable has been removed.......take care when unscrewing the housing from the cover.......the threaded part is very thin and easy to break. The cable end slips out of a slot in the ramp (the round piece that the cable attaches to) after removing the large circlip. Special tools are helpful here.........that's a biiig clip! Notice the clutch cable housing O-ring......it needs replacing with a new one. Also notice the anti-sieze stick......coat the threads of the new clutch cable housing to reduce the chances of crossthreading and breaking your new expensive clutch cable's housing in the side cover. It can happen very easily........ask me how I know..........
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
After installing the clutch cable it should look like this.......notice the location of the retaining ring. It needs to be in the location pictured......there are anti rotation stops there as well, just make sure the gap there is left open.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Reattach the side cover using the same pattern it was removed with......torque the screws to the correct specs in the manual.........it's lighter than you would think, 8-12nM if I remember correctly.
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