Deluxe Pictures
6th Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Where to start?
My personal endeavor to install beach bars began with which diameter bars to go with. Albeit the chubby bars have more room for internal wiring, I wanted to keep the narrow stock look to accentuate the width of the bars. I chose the "White Bros." 39.5" bars that were dimpled and drilled. Yeah the wires were fun to run, but thats the "narrower" look I was looking for.
To try and answer your questions, I'm sure others will follow suit.
1.) Not a problem at all with tank contact laterally, but you have to mock up the bars and set the angle of your rise. I set mine then used a fine sharpie to lay up some alignment keys on the bars and riser. Turn the front end to full left and full right deflection and ensure your controls will clear as well. If not, just rotate the bars forward (upward) and try again until satisfied. (Measure twice and cut once thought process here).
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/HPIM0013.JPG
(you can magnify this image)
2.) Sure they will, if you do your homework and check with bolt spacing independant risers will work fine.
3.) Most burly bars are stepped down in diameter to factory diameter for the mounting of the original risers. I chose to get rid of the entire OEM mount and go with a solid "hidden" mount. The wires are completely hidden from any angle. Keep in mind, with a hidden riser you have to mount the riser before you mount the entire assembly to the upper triple tree.
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms....008%20copy.jpg
(you can magnify this image)
Here are some shots of the risers from the back. Notice they don't have the traditional seperate posts? The are one unit.
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/PICT1177.JPG
This image shows the bolts for the clamps mounted from the bottom side:
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/PICT1178.JPG
Some other helpful advice...
Diagram your connectors (VERY IMPORTANT). The six pins per side can easily be re-pinned incorrectly. Ex. I had two pins out of order, even after mapping the connectors. Before I bolted every thing back up I checked all switches on the controls and had the high beam and horn reversed. Easy fix, but I would have lost my mind had I assembled the entire bike, filled the tank, and realized my mistake. Take your time and take good notes during the wiring phase.
You can find wiring extension kits here:
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...ey&page=11
Hope that helps, and as I've said, others will chime in as well.
[align=left] [/align]
My personal endeavor to install beach bars began with which diameter bars to go with. Albeit the chubby bars have more room for internal wiring, I wanted to keep the narrow stock look to accentuate the width of the bars. I chose the "White Bros." 39.5" bars that were dimpled and drilled. Yeah the wires were fun to run, but thats the "narrower" look I was looking for.
To try and answer your questions, I'm sure others will follow suit.
1.) Not a problem at all with tank contact laterally, but you have to mock up the bars and set the angle of your rise. I set mine then used a fine sharpie to lay up some alignment keys on the bars and riser. Turn the front end to full left and full right deflection and ensure your controls will clear as well. If not, just rotate the bars forward (upward) and try again until satisfied. (Measure twice and cut once thought process here).
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/HPIM0013.JPG
(you can magnify this image)
2.) Sure they will, if you do your homework and check with bolt spacing independant risers will work fine.
3.) Most burly bars are stepped down in diameter to factory diameter for the mounting of the original risers. I chose to get rid of the entire OEM mount and go with a solid "hidden" mount. The wires are completely hidden from any angle. Keep in mind, with a hidden riser you have to mount the riser before you mount the entire assembly to the upper triple tree.
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms....008%20copy.jpg
(you can magnify this image)
Here are some shots of the risers from the back. Notice they don't have the traditional seperate posts? The are one unit.
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/PICT1177.JPG
This image shows the bolts for the clamps mounted from the bottom side:
http://imperialgunnercorps.netfirms.com/PICT1178.JPG
Some other helpful advice...
Diagram your connectors (VERY IMPORTANT). The six pins per side can easily be re-pinned incorrectly. Ex. I had two pins out of order, even after mapping the connectors. Before I bolted every thing back up I checked all switches on the controls and had the high beam and horn reversed. Easy fix, but I would have lost my mind had I assembled the entire bike, filled the tank, and realized my mistake. Take your time and take good notes during the wiring phase.
You can find wiring extension kits here:
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...ey&page=11
Hope that helps, and as I've said, others will chime in as well.
[align=left] [/align]
I am finding more - as I keep looking - great tips by the way in this post,
the "solid hidden mount" is what I am looking for, if ok with you please share the brand - Thanks a lot.....PZX
Not promoting this seller! Just can't find the manufacturer of this style riser.
NOTE!!! I had to mount the bars to the risers first, then attach the risers to the tree. I also had to slice about a half inch off the front edge of the "neck nut" cover (to fit behind the risers solid base), drill out the bolt, and used a piece of threaded rod with acorn nut to attach the cover. A lot of modification but I really wanted that smooth, hidden wire look.
Hope that helps...and how are you liking the new bars?
Front: 91080-93 / Rear: 91402-00
I had to ask about them the other day.
I decided to lower the front fender instead.
Last edited by T Rat; May 20, 2009 at 10:27 PM. Reason: added imgaes
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 1,208
From: Ohio
Very cool...do you have any pics showing the whole bike?
Sorry just finished this last night. Working night shift tonight but I will try to get some more images posted tomorrow evening. I hate to do it because the bike is filthy. Gonna drop the rear a couple of inches as well. Not the fender, the whole rear end.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
T Rat
appreciate you sharing the info and details of installation,
I will start the ordering process on that mount.
the bars are something else - a complete different riding, much more comfortable and better control in the curves and not to say the look.
The only thing I regret is why I did not change sooner !!
again thank's a lot.
PZX
appreciate you sharing the info and details of installation,
I will start the ordering process on that mount.
the bars are something else - a complete different riding, much more comfortable and better control in the curves and not to say the look.
The only thing I regret is why I did not change sooner !!
again thank's a lot.
PZX
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 490
Likes: 3
From: Virginia
Those are freakin sweet. Now you should hook up a flame thrower for them and shoot some flames.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 2
From: WA - The State
Looks great, T Rat. Love your bike, and love that exhaust. I've seen your vid and it sounds great.
I've toyed with the idea of lowering my front fender, also, but want to get the 21" on front first, just to make sure the clearances are right. What you've done looks great.
I've toyed with the idea of lowering my front fender, also, but want to get the 21" on front first, just to make sure the clearances are right. What you've done looks great.