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Help.. Installing ohlins axle hits muffler???

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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:02 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
If you go to Howard's website you will see he illustrates various Ohlin models. #1 look like conventional shocks, #2 jasnusc has described above, #3 like SGLarry has fitted do have threaded bodies. These are the ones I have decided on (just working myself up to order them!). #6 are very different!

Howard offers very generous discounts to HDF members.
Graham,
I think you'll be pleased when you finally get them. The #3's are very adjustable and do have a learning curve (Howard has been VERY helpful in in explaining the adjustments)
Most folks like a more "plug and play" type situation, But I enjoy 'tinkering" LOL! After a few weeks of riding, I have the #3's dialed to my liking...making the adjustments have provided a great ride.
Larry
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SGLarry
Graham,
I think you'll be pleased when you finally get them. The #3's are very adjustable and do have a learning curve (Howard has been VERY helpful in in explaining the adjustments)
Most folks like a more "plug and play" type situation, But I enjoy 'tinkering" LOL! After a few weeks of riding, I have the #3's dialed to my liking...making the adjustments have provided a great ride.
Larry
Hi Larry,

I look forward to comparing notes in time! My winter tinker this year is fitting a 2007 swingarm and rear wheel to my 1990 FLHS and the cherry on the cake will be new Ohlins. I have just printed Howard's order form, but there is quite a lot to be done before my bike gets back on its wheels.

To some degree I would prefer 'fit and forget', although I always adjust tyres and suspension when riding 2-up. The improved quality of ride of the #3 over the #2 is what sold me - and the overwhelming desire to improve my wife's comfort....
 

Last edited by grbrown; Nov 12, 2009 at 06:20 AM. Reason: Added para.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:50 AM
  #23  
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I am late at commenting because I have been off the site for a while ( playing with my Bonniville). I had the same problem installing 13" Ohlins on my 2009 Streetglide. I had to loosen the right side muffler so I could pull it out of the way ( I did not remove it). Once the shock was on I tighten the muffler up. It rests against the lower shock and has not caused any problems
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:21 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Hi Larry,

I look forward to comparing notes in time! My winter tinker this year is fitting a 2007 swingarm and rear wheel to my 1990 FLHS and the cherry on the cake will be new Ohlins. I have just printed Howard's order form, but there is quite a lot to be done before my bike gets back on its wheels.

To some degree I would prefer 'fit and forget', although I always adjust tyres and suspension when riding 2-up. The improved quality of ride of the #3 over the #2 is what sold me - and the overwhelming desire to improve my wife's comfort....
I hear ya'...when mama's not happy......<g>
Adjusting the shocks is not really that hard at all. Adjust the shock length, then basically, spring preload, and dampening. Believe me, If I can do it anbody can. Setting the preload is pretty straight forward and is important for the shock to function correctly. What really "makes" the ride is finding the "sweet spot" in the dampening control. That can be done in a few rides by just changing a click or 2 ,+ or -. Make one change at a time, ride it, and move on from there. Both the the preload and the dampening can be adjusted within minutes with the shocks on the bike. In the end you'll be glad you went with the #3. BTW, I also have a tip on getting them 1/4" shorter by modding the bottom lentgh adjuster (which will get them them to 12-1/2") if you need it for "flat footing". This adjusts the length only, the compression stroke remains the same and the tire will NOT hit the fender when fully compressed. (I used Howards formula from another thread and It should have 1/4" to spare.) With the preload sag the shocks are exactly 12" eye to eye. When you're ready and you need help, just holler and I'll be happy to help.

Larry
 

Last edited by SGLarry; Nov 12, 2009 at 08:03 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by shekmark
I am late at commenting because I have been off the site for a while ( playing with my Bonniville). I had the same problem installing 13" Ohlins on my 2009 Streetglide. I had to loosen the right side muffler so I could pull it out of the way ( I did not remove it). Once the shock was on I tighten the muffler up. It rests against the lower shock and has not caused any problems
Resting against the shock!!!!

The Ohlins shocks compress when riding unlike the stationary HD air shocks. If your muffler is resting against the shock, it is rubbing up and down on the muffler...That does not sound like a good idea but it's your bike...
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:45 AM
  #26  
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Here's some before and after pics of of how I got the #3's 1/4" shorter to get them at 12" with the preload sag set. I did this by removing the blue lock nut from the threaded eye at the bottom of the shock. Then I cut 1/4" off the threads of the eye (Not for the faint of heart, LOL, and the eye will bottom out and not screw in all the way if you don't do this.) Screw the eye all the back in w/o the lock nut and tighten and Voila, you loose 1/4"! (The eye itself actually now becomes the "lock nut" and will not loosen.) There's also plenty of thread left to put them back to 13" if you want. Some might not think that a 1/4" is a lot, but if it gets you "flat footed" and comfortable it does mean something. (Also if you check the pics the axle isn't anywhere close to the muffler which are Rush-3-1/2" diameter.)
 
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Last edited by SGLarry; Nov 12, 2009 at 07:51 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:03 PM
  #27  
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Thanks Larry. Being a short-**** I am not accustomed to flat-footing! I have a pair of the finest balancing toes on the planet. I will be staying with stock length shocks and probably go with yellow springs. I like the thought of knowing they are out of sight but highly visible!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 06:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Thanks Larry. Being a short-**** I am not accustomed to flat-footing! I have a pair of the finest balancing toes on the planet. I will be staying with stock length shocks and probably go with yellow springs. I like the thought of knowing they are out of sight but highly visible!
That's cool...........But just so you know if you end up with the #3's, they are lentgh adjustable down to 12-3/4 w/o any effect on the compression stroke. ( And with the above mod you can get them down to 12-1/2) :-)

Larry
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SGLarry
That's cool...........But just so you know if you end up with the #3's, they are lentgh adjustable down to 12-3/4 w/o any effect on the compression stroke. ( And with the above mod you can get them down to 12-1/2) :-)

Larry
Larry,

They're the ones! As of Friday Howard and I are working on a solution....
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:13 PM
  #30  
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In the case of a '09 or '10 bike this might not be such a hot idea. If you go any shorter than 247mm center to center on the shock mounting bolts the swingarm can hit the frame on the left side at full compression. I just verified it on my bike. Keep in mind these are cast parts so size and shape can vary. A thicker piece will hit sooner. The extended length of the shock with the ride height adjuster screwed in all the way with the blue nut in place is 324mm. The stroke is 77mm so 324-77=247mm. On my bike it hits at 247mm. If I were to take the nut out it would be 5mm shorter which would cause it to hit sooner. I think Ohlins knew what they were doing when they set the specs. Most of the time its best not to second guess them

Marc
Originally Posted by SGLarry
Here's some before and after pics of of how I got the #3's 1/4" shorter to get them at 12" with the preload sag set. I did this by removing the blue lock nut from the threaded eye at the bottom of the shock. Then I cut 1/4" off the threads of the eye (Not for the faint of heart, LOL, and the eye will bottom out and not screw in all the way if you don't do this.) Screw the eye all the back in w/o the lock nut and tighten and Voila, you loose 1/4"! (The eye itself actually now becomes the "lock nut" and will not loosen.) There's also plenty of thread left to put them back to 13" if you want. Some might not think that a 1/4" is a lot, but if it gets you "flat footed" and comfortable it does mean something. (Also if you check the pics the axle isn't anywhere close to the muffler which are Rush-3-1/2" diameter.)
 
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