Damn Mud, every time I see that bike I like it better than the last time.
Got one question, what are the two smaller gauges for?

 

.
.
Thanks for the compliment Frank. Appreciate it.

The two small gauges are Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure.
.
.
.

 

That's what I figured, but just wanted to be sure.
And its still a wicked looking ride.

 

.
.
.
.
.
.
First off the bat, I made a scaled drawing to establish where exactly to amputate.

Ideally the Grenade Can will align with the shock,
and horizontal to the ground.
.
.

.
.
I'm working here in the Great State of Texas,
and the machine is in the Liberty and Independence State of Delaware,
so, I overlaid my drawing onto a photo of the actual machine.
.
.

.
.
Made a few modifications to the original dimensions below.............
.
.

.
.
Here below is the Grenade Can in its unaltered state.
.
.

.
.
....Another view, unaltered.............
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.

 

.
.
.
.
.
Before the cutting begins, a full scale cardboard pattern is made.
.
.

.
.
Shown next is the first cut.

I like a thin cutting wheel mounted on my high speed die grinder.
.
.

.
.
Here next, I like to recycle old computer cases for this sort of operation.
They are usually made of some pretty nice steel.
.
.

.
.
I marked off and harvested a shunk large enough to seal off both cans,
so I can perform the folding operation, (for both pieces), all at once.
.
.

.
.
First step is shown above and below.

Clamp the piece at your Anvil Station,
and start the bending with your DuckBills.
.
.

.
.
Below, after the initial bending,
finish the fold with a flat faced hammer.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.

 

.
.
.
.
.
Here below in the first picture
you see I've closed off one of the Grenade Cans.
.
.

.
.
Another view is shown next, with the lid on.

Part of the front handle may or may not need trimming to clear the shock.

That determination will be made in Delaware
after the mounts and positioning is clarified.
.
.

.
.
Here next, comparison view, shows a can marked,
and a can finished and ready for paint preparation.
.
.

.
.
After the welding is completed, a leak test is performed.
It does hold water.
.
.

.
.
...I welded in a 5/16" eyeBolt to hang the lock.......................................
.
.

.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.

 

.
.
.
.
..........Thanks Frank.

The welding went pretty well, my old eyeBalls have a hard time nowadaze.
The machine is wire feed, Lincoln 125 Plus. Takes care of my needs.
When I have need for HeliArc quality I visit a friend and use his machine.
.
.
.
.
Couple old friends dropped by yesterday so I snapped some shots of his machine.

This taillight could work for a 2 wheel application. Cheap. Yes, leave the rings in.
.
.

.
.
.......Connecting rod mirror holders........
.
.

.
.

.
.
....He's owned this one since 1968. (the good old daze)....
.
.

.
.
...Another beautiful South Texas November day.............
.
.

.
.
.

 

I just finished reading the entire thing (over the last week or so when I could get some time). Then I went back tonight and used the index to find what I wanted to reread.
Works great, lot's of good ideas that I plan to use this winter.
Best thing I've found so far since joining the forum.
Will keep checking back as I'm doing the winter mods.
Thanks for keeping this up and going.
The index works great.
AzSteve

 

Mud,
Something bothered me about the way you have that hasp and lock setup on the 'Mud Bags'.

With the lock being a separate piece I would not like having it rattle around all the time annoying the hell out of me.

Especially if the "bag's/cans" were empty, they could sound like a Jamaican steel drum band gone bad.

Anyway I knew there was another way to do it but couldn't figure it out until I was in a hardware store yesterday and ran across some locking hasps and knew they were what I had been trying to remember. Damn getting old SUX's.


Anyway my idea would be to cut the lock bar up and weld it to the handle or cut a new hole in the handle (if possible) to match the lock and rivet or bolt the lock to the box under it. That way when the handle is latched the lock fits through the handle so you can lock it with a simple twist and no rattling.

Not sure how much they want for them where you are but here's a place you can order them from, keyed alike so you don't need to carry a bunch of extra keys, for under $6 each (+ shipping I guess).

http://www.outdoorcraftsmansupply.com/lock_hasp.aspx

The thing isn't going to keep out anyone who's bound and determined to get in. But it will keep honest folks honest that's really all your after. A truly determined lunatic isn't going to be slowed down much by a lock in any case.

 

Yea, I figured that part out after looking at mine a bit. But the tops on the single latch cans are not permently attached. All you need to do is open them up more than about 50 degrees and the top will unhook if you slide it sideways about 1/2".
They are made that way so they can be latched to the side of whatever weapon they are made for so you can load them easier and faster.