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I wanted a luggage rack but didn't want to pay HD $100 for theirs. So I went to Lowes and purchased two 5/16 rods. I bent and welded these to shape: Attachment 93864
Matkiwi,
Trying to make my pics larger here. So far holding up real well. I haven't had to touch them up at all.
Last July I had posted a thread asking ideas about improving the looks of my spokes cheap. Thanks for all the replies. I am eventually going to replace my spoked with some chrome custom wheels, so what I needed was just a temporary "band-aid" to improve the looks until I can buy what I want. This is what I did.
I removed the front wheel and sanded the rust as best I could with fine emory cloth, then washed them with a mixture of simple green and water to remove any impurities on the metal. I let it sit for 24 hours to completely dry. I bought some Rustoleum aluminum and applied 2 thin coats and 1 thick coat with a small 1/8" diameter craft brush, letting each coat dry for 24 hrs.I am pleased with the results I achievedwith$4.00 for a can of paint and about8 hoursofmeticulous hand work.Time will tell how long it will last, but if the rust starts coming through, I have well over half can of paint left to touch it up.
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
You won't believe what a good job SOS pads do in cleaning up rust. Wet the pad and scrub away. It leaves a coating on the surface that slows the return of rust. I have used it for decades and it is the best I have ever tried. It doesn't scratch, either.
Cheers.
The index works fine only if settings under UserCP/Edit Options have been set like this:
is that what you meant in the image above??
red box around Linear - ??oldest?? first . .
.
That's correct, mud....
Normally my settings are Linear Newest First: this setting option shows the newest posts (= highest post #) in a thread on the first page, where as Linear Oldest First shows the latest post (= highest number) at the last page in the thread and the oldest post (= lowest post #) at the first page of the thread.
The links in the index we're working on is based on the setting as shown in my previous post:
Thread display mode: Linear - Oldest First
Number of posts to show per page: Show 40 Posts per Page
My advice would be to insert this setting advise into the index; if members have a different seting, the links direct to the wrong pages!
FXD2003Rider
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Jan 28, 2020 at 01:47 PM.
I cant take credit for this one, I saw it in the softtail forum, but I didn't see it in here so I thought I'd do a write up for you guys
I started with 2 inert grenades that I picked up from the surplus store for $9.
Remove the pin and spoon. Then unscrew the fuse assembly. At the top there's a spot right in the center to punch for drilling. I drilled mine out with a 7/16" bit.
I then took a 5" 3/8-16 grade 5 bolt and passed it through the fuse assembly and screwed that whole works back onto the grenade, replaced the spoon, then pin. (notice the head of the hex bolt fits perfectly between the walls of the fuse assembly) you are then left with about an inch of threads sticking out of the bottom of the grenade.
Next, Take your old peg, cut off a good portion of the rubber and glue. I cleaned it up with the wire wheel. I then took my cut off wheel and cut the peg down to about an inch past the "T" Attachment 95094
I then drilled and tapped the peg to 3/8-16 NC I put a large flat washer between the two parts and assembled them. At this point, I test fit them on my bike to get the orientation of the pin how I liked it.
I then drilled a 1/8" hole through the peg/ bolt and inserted a roll pin to keep them from rotating.
I cant take credit for this one, I saw it in the softtail forum, but I didn't see it in here so I thought I'd do a write up for you guys
I started with 2 inert grenades that I picked up from the surplus store for $9.
Remove the pin and spoon. Then unscrew the fuse assembly. At the top there's a spot right in the center to punch for drilling. I drilled mine out with a 7/16" bit.
I then took a 5" 3/8-16 grade 5 bolt and passed it through the fuse assembly and screwed that whole works back onto the grenade, replaced the spoon, then pin. (notice the head of the hex bolt fits perfectly between the walls of the fuse assembly) you are then left with about an inch of threads sticking out of the bottom of the grenade.
Next, Take your old peg, cut off a good portion of the rubber and glue. I cleaned it up with the wire wheel. I then took my cut off wheel and cut the peg down to about an inch past the "T" Attachment 95094
I then drilled and tapped the peg to 3/8-16 NC I put a large flat washer between the two parts and assembled them. At this point, I test fit them on my bike to get the orientation of the pin how I liked it.
I then drilled a 1/8" hole through the peg/ bolt and inserted a roll pin to keep them from rotating.
$8 luggage rack
