* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
Road Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: Yukon, Canada
I decided I didn't like the looks of the lowers that are available for my bike, so I made up my own. I wanted to be able to have them fastened to my Harley Quick Detachable Windshield so that when I remove the shield, the lowers come off as well.
I started with a cardboard template to get the placement and size of lower I wanted. Yes, I made sure that the box was empty...
Next, using the template as a guide, I used my Dremel tool to rough out the shape I was after in a sheet of Lexan. I used a router attachment on my Dremel.
After the lowers were cut, I clamped them back to back and sanded the edges until they were smooth. I used a palm sander and sanding blocks... 60, 180 and 220 grit. Once sanded, I lightly flamed the edges.
Brackets. I used 1''x1'' angle aluminum 1/8'' thick. I measured and cut two identical pieces, sanding off the cuts afterward. In each length, two 1/2'' holes were drilled in for the stock HD QD windshield hardware, and three 1/4'' holes for mounting the Lexan to the brackets.
I used 1/4'' stainless steel hardware to mount the Lexan to the aluminum brackets. Then the stock QD hardware to mount them to the windshield. You can see in the pictures that I replaced the washers on the inside with the 1/8'' aluminum.
Everything was fastened together for the last time. I used blue Locktite on all connections.
Cost:
6' length - 1'' x 1'' - 1/8'' angle aluminum - $25
6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4 stainless steel bolts - $4
6 x 1/4-20 stainless steel acorn nuts - $4
12 - 1/4'' stainless steel washers - $3
12''x12'' sheet - Lexan - Free
Total - $36
I started with a cardboard template to get the placement and size of lower I wanted. Yes, I made sure that the box was empty...
Next, using the template as a guide, I used my Dremel tool to rough out the shape I was after in a sheet of Lexan. I used a router attachment on my Dremel.
After the lowers were cut, I clamped them back to back and sanded the edges until they were smooth. I used a palm sander and sanding blocks... 60, 180 and 220 grit. Once sanded, I lightly flamed the edges.
Brackets. I used 1''x1'' angle aluminum 1/8'' thick. I measured and cut two identical pieces, sanding off the cuts afterward. In each length, two 1/2'' holes were drilled in for the stock HD QD windshield hardware, and three 1/4'' holes for mounting the Lexan to the brackets.
I used 1/4'' stainless steel hardware to mount the Lexan to the aluminum brackets. Then the stock QD hardware to mount them to the windshield. You can see in the pictures that I replaced the washers on the inside with the 1/8'' aluminum.
Everything was fastened together for the last time. I used blue Locktite on all connections.
Cost:
6' length - 1'' x 1'' - 1/8'' angle aluminum - $25
6 x 1/4-20 x 3/4 stainless steel bolts - $4
6 x 1/4-20 stainless steel acorn nuts - $4
12 - 1/4'' stainless steel washers - $3
12''x12'' sheet - Lexan - Free
Total - $36
Last edited by yk.hd; Jul 6, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: Yukon, Canada
Stainless steel comes in different "grades", and different ''grades'' corrode at different rates - or are more resistant to it. 400 stainless steel will corrode fast, while a 300 stainless steel will be more resistant...
I used 18-8 stainless steel which has a lower carbon content than both 300 and 400 stainless steel.
I think I should be good to go.
I could see some rubber washers taking care of any problems then. Sometimes I use innertube rubber and hole punches to make custom sizes.
I think my Harbor Freight hole punch set cost around $5 - I get a lot of use out of it.
I think my Harbor Freight hole punch set cost around $5 - I get a lot of use out of it.
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
All it takes is a thin coating of clear nail polish between the two different metals to stop it from doing that.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
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very nice job. and finely executed.
what is the purpose of flaming the edge of the Lexan??
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May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
You can do the same thing with a polishing or buffing wheel, but flaming is easier and quicker.
Last edited by In Memoriam Citoriplus; Jul 6, 2010 at 08:53 PM.
My experience with that (building hydrolizers) was that the torch has to be very consistent in flame exposure or you'll get overmelting or bubbles. The polishing gives even results, but like you said, is more work. A LOT more.
You can look at a piece and tell it was flamed. I wondered once if I could use some electric coil heater of some sort instead of the hand torch, so tried the heat gun - it's a bit better.
You can look at a piece and tell it was flamed. I wondered once if I could use some electric coil heater of some sort instead of the hand torch, so tried the heat gun - it's a bit better.
Last edited by Quadancer; Jul 7, 2010 at 01:27 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: Yukon, Canada
Thanks! Turned out exactly how I planned.
Yeah, you definitely need to have consistent heat... Things can get ugly REAL quick. I'll have to give a heat gun a try next time I'm playing with Lexan - I didn't even think of pulling mine out.
My experience with that (building hydrolizers) was that the torch has to be very consistent in flame exposure or you'll get overmelting or bubbles. The polishing gives even results, but like you said, is more work. A LOT more.
You can look at a piece and tell it was flamed. I wondered once if I could use some electric coil heater of some sort instead of the hand torch, so tried the heat gun - it's a bit better.
You can look at a piece and tell it was flamed. I wondered once if I could use some electric coil heater of some sort instead of the hand torch, so tried the heat gun - it's a bit better.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
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showed an Axle Alignment Gauge that I made on feb 02 2008. posting # 562.
here it is.....................
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it is functional, butt, I have now produced one that is way more accurate.
and, easier to use.
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just as easy to build two of these at a time.
first off a paper pattern seen here below on the right,
layed out on a 1/8" aluminum flat. 2 3/4" x 8"...............
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trace around your axle nut flange w/ the horizontal line running through the 8 " length..........
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..............inch and a half hole saw was just the right size for this operation.....................
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.......cut along the horizontal line and up along the canted marks at both ends.
then split the piece into two along the vertical center line...........
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now it's easy to hold the gauge against the axle nut flanges
with a fine point felt pen witness mark...............
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showed an Axle Alignment Gauge that I made on feb 02 2008. posting # 562.
here it is.....................
.
.
.
.
it is functional, butt, I have now produced one that is way more accurate.
and, easier to use.
.
.
just as easy to build two of these at a time.
first off a paper pattern seen here below on the right,
layed out on a 1/8" aluminum flat. 2 3/4" x 8"...............
.
.
.
.
trace around your axle nut flange w/ the horizontal line running through the 8 " length..........
.
.
.
.
..............inch and a half hole saw was just the right size for this operation.....................
.
.
.
.
.......cut along the horizontal line and up along the canted marks at both ends.
then split the piece into two along the vertical center line...........
.
.
.
.
now it's easy to hold the gauge against the axle nut flanges
with a fine point felt pen witness mark...............
.
.
.
.
.