bobber update, 2 obstacles
Well,
She has been on a little trip up the street and back.....pretty "bouncy", but I have 2 obstacles to overcome:
Bike falls flat around 3,000 RPM, so the ignition is not advancing
Clutch, have double checked everything, and cannot get the clutch to disengage. I honestly don't know what else to do, so I have to step away for awhile, and keep reading the manual and try to figure out just exactly what I am missing.
P.S. The 8 inch baffles in the drags will be coming out, and I will cut them down to 3-4 inches, 8 inches of baffle is restricting the bike too much.
~Joe
She has been on a little trip up the street and back.....pretty "bouncy", but I have 2 obstacles to overcome:
Bike falls flat around 3,000 RPM, so the ignition is not advancing
Clutch, have double checked everything, and cannot get the clutch to disengage. I honestly don't know what else to do, so I have to step away for awhile, and keep reading the manual and try to figure out just exactly what I am missing.
P.S. The 8 inch baffles in the drags will be coming out, and I will cut them down to 3-4 inches, 8 inches of baffle is restricting the bike too much.
~Joe
This part of the build can be frustrating but hang in there,stepping away is always a good thing.Bouncy? maybe too heavy fork fluid.Ignition. Have fun! Clutch! that is just an adjustment issue.Start from the begginning on that one,at the derby cover,then the cable adjuster.Good Luck. Dog
Joe you can order thicker springs for the seat as well, that will assist taking the pogo out from under your ***... there may be something to the whole thinner fork oil idea, but being that your running a springer... not an issue... i would play with some diff seat springs, do you feel the bounce out of the front or under you (whole bike) it is a narrow rear hard tail it is going to bounce a bit, you can take a bit of air out of your rear tire as well, on a hard tail it will amaze you how much that will help! ... What year is that motor? points? go back run though a clutch adjustment and make sure you have the right amount of fluid in there as well, sometimes that will affect how the clutch disengages... man your in the home stretch... keep hammering it out!
Last edited by JRK5892; Aug 13, 2008 at 09:03 AM.
ooh ya! if your clutch does not adjust, check your torque settings from the center bolt when you replaced the basket! Fluid is clean and good so save that and just replace it back in after your done checking it... does look good!
Got a friend to help me, and we got it together to where it works......a mix-match of parts from different years. had to do a little modifying, but it works GREAT!
The carb just needs some help. I'll play with it a little more, but if I can't figure it out, then I'll swap it for a rebuilt one.
runs good otherwise. Thanks for the positive comments, guys.
P.S. once the carb work is ironed out, I will clean it all up and take a bunch of completed pics, and load up my album on here. Soooo nice to see the end in sight!
~Joe
The carb just needs some help. I'll play with it a little more, but if I can't figure it out, then I'll swap it for a rebuilt one.
runs good otherwise. Thanks for the positive comments, guys.
P.S. once the carb work is ironed out, I will clean it all up and take a bunch of completed pics, and load up my album on here. Soooo nice to see the end in sight!
~Joe
JOe is it a Mikuni carb? if so there is a step by step on tuning online... i have used it on several projects... really helps!
http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html
http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html
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Joe,
It's the CV made by Keihin.
I'm looking at getting a custom built CV from a guy on eBay that builds them with the guts all polished and customized.
Even with only 1/2 of the throttle usable right now, the little thing REALLY scoots!
~Joe
It's the CV made by Keihin.
I'm looking at getting a custom built CV from a guy on eBay that builds them with the guts all polished and customized.
Even with only 1/2 of the throttle usable right now, the little thing REALLY scoots!
~Joe





