Battery question
Battery question
Accidentally left my 13 WG ignition switch on and killed the battery. Put it on the trickle charger once I realized. Been a few days.... Well if I turn it on accessory it comes on but the battery light is on, if I try and turn it on to start it, everything just clicks on and off. Almost like a flicker?.. Is my battery toast? Or is it just still dead? Or is just the trickle charger not cutting it?
Also is the system a 12v system like a car where I could give it a jump?
Also is the system a 12v system like a car where I could give it a jump?
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Manvel Texas
Trickle charger will not charge it. It is only used to maintain a charge while not in use for periods of time. You will need to put it on a 6 amp charge until fully charged. I wouldnt jump it if its that low it will be a bad strain on your stator and can burn the stator up.
Last edited by Thomas Eckenrod; Sep 30, 2014 at 08:13 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,555
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From: Clarksburg, PA
A trickle charger is like 2 amps and a real battery charger is 10.
A trickle charger is only to maintain a charged battery whereas a battery charger actually charges...make sense?
A trickle charger is only to maintain a charged battery whereas a battery charger actually charges...make sense?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
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From: Texas
Trickle charger will not charge it. It is only used to maintain a charge while not in use for periods of time. You will need to put it on a 6 amp charge until fully charged. I wouldnt jump it if its that low it will be a bad strain on your stator and can burn the stator up.
Damage to the stator and voltage regulator is very unlikely unless the battery is internally shorted to begin with. A good battery will only draw heavy amps from the system in the initial charging, typically around 5-10 minutes. The current draw on the system drops exponentially afterwards. If the amp draw to the battery exceeds the rating of the fuse, it will open the circuit.
I have killed my battery a couple of times and both times I put it on an el-cheapo WalMart automotive charger set at 6 amps and it was charged enough to crank the bike in around 15 minutes, and was fully charged after riding for 30 minutes...
Get it cranked, ride for an hour, and if it does not hold the charge, check the charging system...I learned from my local dealer service manager that there are some bad voltage regulators out there...maybe you got one.
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Hawkeye state
Not so. The charging system is designed to charge a completely dead battery and will do it rather quickly. The OEM stator is rated at over 30 amps at idle and 50 amps over 2000 rpm, the OEM voltage regulator is rated for 38 amps and the system is protected by a fast acting fuse, typically 30 or 40 amps, depending on the year and model.
Damage to the stator and voltage regulator is very unlikely unless the battery is internally shorted to begin with. A good battery will only draw heavy amps from the system in the initial charging, typically around 5-10 minutes. The current draw on the system drops exponentially afterwards. If the amp draw to the battery exceeds the rating of the fuse, it will open the circuit.
I have killed my battery a couple of times and both times I put it on an el-cheapo WalMart automotive charger set at 6 amps and it was charged enough to crank the bike in around 15 minutes, and was fully charged after riding for 30 minutes...
Get it cranked, ride for an hour, and if it does not hold the charge, check the charging system...I learned from my local dealer service manager that there are some bad voltage regulators out there...maybe you got one.
Damage to the stator and voltage regulator is very unlikely unless the battery is internally shorted to begin with. A good battery will only draw heavy amps from the system in the initial charging, typically around 5-10 minutes. The current draw on the system drops exponentially afterwards. If the amp draw to the battery exceeds the rating of the fuse, it will open the circuit.
I have killed my battery a couple of times and both times I put it on an el-cheapo WalMart automotive charger set at 6 amps and it was charged enough to crank the bike in around 15 minutes, and was fully charged after riding for 30 minutes...
Get it cranked, ride for an hour, and if it does not hold the charge, check the charging system...I learned from my local dealer service manager that there are some bad voltage regulators out there...maybe you got one.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Texas
No charging system is designed to charge a dead battery ever. Only to maintain. Between the lighting,ecm, fuel pump, etc, you are pulling majority of the output. I guess you never wrench on your cages or at least read instructions when replacing an alternator. Always fully charge battery and check voltage drop when replacing to prevent failure. Using bike charging system to fully recharge a completely dead battery is the best I have heard all week. Smmfh
A dead battery cannot be charged...A dead battery is a bad battery that will not hold a charge. Usually a dead battery suffers from plate corrosion aka shedding which can cause shorting of the plates. All batteries shed to some degree. Using a battery tender without regular cycling of the battery is a very common cause of excessive shedding. If you put a tender on your ride in November and don't crank it up until April, then don't be surprised that you will need a new battery in May.
Attempting to charge a dead battery with the charging system may damage the system.
The HD charging system is designed to charge a good but completely discharged battery over its useful lifespan.
I have repaired many different kinds of automotive charging systems over the past few decades...from Lear Jets to Volkswagens. Now I am into Harley Davidsons and their charging systems work the same as a Lear...just with different components.
Last edited by skinman13; Oct 1, 2014 at 06:42 AM.
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