splice electrical
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,091
Likes: 1,128
From:
Are you familiar with Posi-locks.
Many combinations available.
You can find a video on youtube.
It provides a clean connection that is easy.
Here is a link to the product.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/pos...s-for-sale.htm
Many combinations available.
You can find a video on youtube.
It provides a clean connection that is easy.
Here is a link to the product.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/pos...s-for-sale.htm
Are you familiar with Posi-locks.
Many combinations available.
You can find a video on youtube.
It provides a clean connection that is easy.
Here is a link to the product.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/pos...s-for-sale.htm
Many combinations available.
You can find a video on youtube.
It provides a clean connection that is easy.
Here is a link to the product.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/pos...s-for-sale.htm
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 288
Likes: 3
From: UK
The absolute best method to splice stranded wires is to use the Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless Connectors. With these, the stripped wire is never touched, the sleeve is heated until the solder band melts and makes a secure connection and the sleeve shrinks over the wire and makes a complete environmental seal.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
There is really nothing wrong with most of the techniques presented here. They will work, and might even last a long time if you are lucky, but are mostly practiced by amateurs. Just say'n...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,768
Likes: 6,504
From: Honah Lee
You're not going to get one like this at your local Harley or India dealer. You may have to skip the pre tin with strand wire. Not sure how it would twist. I have always bent 90 degree, twisted ,solder and then bent it all back in line. Get a chance, going to try this. Should be neat.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:09 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 20,021
Likes: 8,076
From: poway
There are two ways to approach splicing wires...professional and amateur.
Solder spliced, whether it is a union telegraph splice that is twisted and soldered, or a lap splice where the ends are tinned and then laid side-by-side and then soldered, and then the soldered connection is covered by electrical tape or shrink tubing is strictly amateur. It will work, but it looks like it was done by a novice in the driveway somewhere. And, regardless of how it looks or who does it, it is a substandard repair at best. A professional will never touch a newly stripped wire if at all possible because the body oils in the skin are very caustic and eventually will cause corrosion. Lap splicing is substandard to union telegraph splicing because there needs to be a solid mechanical connection before soldering...and professionals will only use solder splicing on solid core wires.
Stranded wires, like is used in automotive and aviation, is not designed to be spliced like the above methods...for stranded wires, a mechanical crimp splice or a heat-shrink-solder sleeve is the preferred method by professionals. A properly done mechanical splice on stranded wire will beat a lap or union telegraph splice for mechanical integrity and circuit reliability.
The absolute best method to splice stranded wires is to use the Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless Connectors. With these, the stripped wire is never touched, the sleeve is heated until the solder band melts and makes a secure connection and the sleeve shrinks over the wire and makes a complete environmental seal.
I use these most of the time or an uninsulated barrel splice properly crimped with a ratcheting crimp tool and covered with heat shrink otherwise. Yeah, they cost more, but then so does a Harley Davidson...
And, you should never, EVER cover any splice with electrical tape except for a temporary emergency measure, and especially so if it is going to be subjected to the elements like on a motorcycle.
Y'all can do it any way y'all want, but I am going to stick with the way I learned in the US Navy repairing wiring in big-*** helicopters and supersonic fighter jets...followed by 25 years repairing airplane wiring.
Solder spliced, whether it is a union telegraph splice that is twisted and soldered, or a lap splice where the ends are tinned and then laid side-by-side and then soldered, and then the soldered connection is covered by electrical tape or shrink tubing is strictly amateur. It will work, but it looks like it was done by a novice in the driveway somewhere. And, regardless of how it looks or who does it, it is a substandard repair at best. A professional will never touch a newly stripped wire if at all possible because the body oils in the skin are very caustic and eventually will cause corrosion. Lap splicing is substandard to union telegraph splicing because there needs to be a solid mechanical connection before soldering...and professionals will only use solder splicing on solid core wires.
Stranded wires, like is used in automotive and aviation, is not designed to be spliced like the above methods...for stranded wires, a mechanical crimp splice or a heat-shrink-solder sleeve is the preferred method by professionals. A properly done mechanical splice on stranded wire will beat a lap or union telegraph splice for mechanical integrity and circuit reliability.
The absolute best method to splice stranded wires is to use the Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless Connectors. With these, the stripped wire is never touched, the sleeve is heated until the solder band melts and makes a secure connection and the sleeve shrinks over the wire and makes a complete environmental seal.
I use these most of the time or an uninsulated barrel splice properly crimped with a ratcheting crimp tool and covered with heat shrink otherwise. Yeah, they cost more, but then so does a Harley Davidson...
And, you should never, EVER cover any splice with electrical tape except for a temporary emergency measure, and especially so if it is going to be subjected to the elements like on a motorcycle.
Y'all can do it any way y'all want, but I am going to stick with the way I learned in the US Navy repairing wiring in big-*** helicopters and supersonic fighter jets...followed by 25 years repairing airplane wiring.
Remember practicing the lineman's splice in high school electricity class..
I like your methods best though!
I would think most people are amateurs in terms of being electricians or EE's.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 315
Likes: 2
For Posi-Taps -
Find the wire you wish to "tap" into and place the grey end over it -
Take the lead of the new item (such as the positive of a new light) and place the lead through the black piece of the Posi-Tap.
Take the "needle" end of the Posi-Tap and begin screwing it onto the grey end of the Posi-Tap. (I found that it's easier to screw the "needle" end onto the wire first, then screw the black end on to the Posi-Tap last.)
Completed and ready to go!
I recently used these when I placed a new battery and battery cables in the bike. The new battery cables with "accessory leads" allowed me to really free up the battery terminals and the taps allow me to place (currently) three accessories into it. Nice and clean, and easy to modify/service later if needed. (Blue Posi-Locks are used in the background for another item.)
Good luck!
Last edited by Jason Oates; Jan 10, 2015 at 07:48 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
The absolute best method to splice stranded wires is to use the Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless Connectors. With these, the stripped wire is never touched, the sleeve is heated until the solder band melts and makes a secure connection and the sleeve shrinks over the wire and makes a complete environmental seal.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,816
Likes: 2,556
From: UK
These are pretty cool do you just heat them up with a little torch? How big is the connection when complete ? Only problem with some of the other suggestions in this thread is the connection being too big and you'll never be able to say, pull it through a set of handlebars. This looks neat tho.. Coming from an amateur haha
Ideally, you want a heat gun with a heat diffuser/directer attachment that lets you apply heat to all sides of the joint at once - it's just a bit of bent tin attached to the end of the gun. But you can just move the heat gun around all sides of the wire as you go.
The finished joints are not much bigger than the original wire assuming you use the right size shrink connector. If you do a lineman type splice, then the joint will the bigger. I normally just strip the wire ends, then push them into each other so the strands intertwine, then give a bit of a twist to tidy them up. Heat it up until the solder melts and the tube shrinks and you're done.