Oil temp dipstick
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 718
Likes: 1
From: Panama City, FL
I am one of the rare ones who've had good luck with my HD oil temp dipstick. I bought mine in 2009, and just replaced the battery last month. I know this is the exception though.
I do nothing different than yall do...I press the button after a ride to check the oil temp and say...oh ****! My oil is running hot!
I do nothing different than yall do...I press the button after a ride to check the oil temp and say...oh ****! My oil is running hot!
I'll be honest with you, I don't know. I've always believed the cylinder head temperatures came from the 32446-99 engine temperature sensor located behind the front cylinder, but where does the engine temperature come from? I just don't know. It is clearly different than the cylinder head temps but what exactly is it reading? I don't see any sensors listed but the temps are there in the Power Vision listed as engine temperature and they are distinctly different than head temperatures. This is my first go round with a fuel injected HD, I'm an old carb guy trying to figure everything out but some of these readings have me wondering exactly what and where the sensor is...
There are 3 choices in regards to engine heat-
Engine Temperature
Engine Temperature Sensor (voltage)
Cylinder Head Temperature
The Engine Temperature Sensor is at the rear left side of the front cylinder head. It sends a signal (in voltage) indicating what the temperature is of the rear left side of the front cylinder head.
That temperature is displayed in the ENGINE TEMPERATURE display, not the cylinder head temperature display.
I know it does not make any sense, but that is how Dynojet does it on the Power Vision.
To make it even more confusing, the Cylinder Head Temperature display is a derived number, coming from an algorithm of which the actual CHT is only one of the numbers taken into consideration.
About a year or so ago I researched this at length, and both Dynojet and Jamie at Fuelmoto confirmed the above confusing, seemingly Wrong information was, in fact, accurate.
It may have changed, and I will be checking on that this next week...but I sort of doubt it. I have gone thru PV software updates, and my readings on my own bikes have not changed.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
If you want the actual oil temperature and avoid the cheese digital dipstick JES Custom does have an analog setup that fits '99 through current Dyna models, the black faced gauges look pretty nice: http://www.jescustomaccents.com/cate...?categoryId=37
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,756
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Unless something has changed in the last year, the Power Vision has a confusing way of naming their gauges.
There are 3 choices in regards to engine heat-
Engine Temperature
Engine Temperature Sensor (voltage)
Cylinder Head Temperature
The Engine Temperature Sensor is at the rear left side of the front cylinder head. It sends a signal (in voltage) indicating what the temperature is of the rear left side of the front cylinder head.
That temperature is displayed in the ENGINE TEMPERATURE display, not the cylinder head temperature display.
I know it does not make any sense, but that is how Dynojet does it on the Power Vision.
To make it even more confusing, the Cylinder Head Temperature display is a derived number, coming from an algorithm of which the actual CHT is only one of the numbers taken into consideration.
About a year or so ago I researched this at length, and both Dynojet and Jamie at Fuelmoto confirmed the above confusing, seemingly Wrong information was, in fact, accurate.
It may have changed, and I will be checking on that this next week...but I sort of doubt it. I have gone thru PV software updates, and my readings on my own bikes have not changed.
There are 3 choices in regards to engine heat-
Engine Temperature
Engine Temperature Sensor (voltage)
Cylinder Head Temperature
The Engine Temperature Sensor is at the rear left side of the front cylinder head. It sends a signal (in voltage) indicating what the temperature is of the rear left side of the front cylinder head.
That temperature is displayed in the ENGINE TEMPERATURE display, not the cylinder head temperature display.
I know it does not make any sense, but that is how Dynojet does it on the Power Vision.
To make it even more confusing, the Cylinder Head Temperature display is a derived number, coming from an algorithm of which the actual CHT is only one of the numbers taken into consideration.
About a year or so ago I researched this at length, and both Dynojet and Jamie at Fuelmoto confirmed the above confusing, seemingly Wrong information was, in fact, accurate.
It may have changed, and I will be checking on that this next week...but I sort of doubt it. I have gone thru PV software updates, and my readings on my own bikes have not changed.
I know you don't want this to be an oil thread but I do understand what you've posted about the LiquiMoly 10W-60 I'm running. I was using VR1 50 and 60 weight but had wanted to move to synthetics, the Mobil 1 caused a dramatic increase in top end noise whereas the LiquiMoly is stone quiet but I did notice the oil carryover with the 10W-60 increased to the point I had to remove your breather bolts and go back to a horseshoe breather and low mounted filter due to the oil misting. I'll revisit my engine oil in the spring and may just move back to VR1 and stop searching for the holy grail of oils
Kevin, I appreciate you taking the time to explain how the Power Vision is displaying the temperatures, it makes more sense now; my PV does display the 3 options for temperature and in the future I'll only concern myself with engine temperature as that's derived directly from the engine sensor. I guess I'm going to be adding the JES Custom analog oil temperature gauge. Perhaps you could set up a partnership with them and add those to your offerings at DK
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 176
As for the original topic. Digital temp dipstick have not worked for me. On number two. Busted. They are not reliable for manually checking oil level either. The dip stick doesn't rotate like it should due to sensor wires. I believe this does not let it rest where it is supposed to all the time. I don't recommend and only keep it in cause it's a nice gloss black. Lol.
Kevin, I appreciate you taking the time to explain how the Power Vision is displaying the temperatures, it makes more sense now; my PV does display the 3 options for temperature and in the future I'll only concern myself with engine temperature as that's derived directly from the engine sensor. I guess I'm going to be adding the JES Custom analog oil temperature gauge. Perhaps you could set up a partnership with them and add those to your offerings at DK
I know you don't want this to be an oil thread but I do understand what you've posted about the LiquiMoly 10W-60 I'm running. I was using VR1 50 and 60 weight but had wanted to move to synthetics, the Mobil 1 caused a dramatic increase in top end noise whereas the LiquiMoly is stone quiet but I did notice the oil carryover with the 10W-60 increased to the point I had to remove your breather bolts and go back to a horseshoe breather and low mounted filter due to the oil misting. I'll revisit my engine oil in the spring and may just move back to VR1 and stop searching for the holy grail of oils
I know you don't want this to be an oil thread but I do understand what you've posted about the LiquiMoly 10W-60 I'm running. I was using VR1 50 and 60 weight but had wanted to move to synthetics, the Mobil 1 caused a dramatic increase in top end noise whereas the LiquiMoly is stone quiet but I did notice the oil carryover with the 10W-60 increased to the point I had to remove your breather bolts and go back to a horseshoe breather and low mounted filter due to the oil misting. I'll revisit my engine oil in the spring and may just move back to VR1 and stop searching for the holy grail of oils
I did double check today. The PV gauge display of ET (engine temperature) is the actual temperature of the rear left of the front cylinder where the sensor is. The PV gauge display of cylinder head temperature is a calculated number based on many variables...it is NOT an accurate representation of the cylinder head temperatures...they call it a representation of the engines' "core temperature". Makes no sense to me why they label the gauges that way, seems reversed, but that is how it is.
On oil, there are two oils that are fairly quiet, dissipate heat well, lubricate well, and hold up to heat as well or better than most (keeping their "faux" viscosity). Redline 20/50 and Dynacycle 20/50.
Last edited by DK Custom; Dec 21, 2015 at 05:33 PM.
Not sure if they still make it but my old style needle one works fine on my 2004. Know it's pretty accurate since it matches the one on my garage wall when I get ready to start up. Did have to put a couple o-rings on the rubber stopper grooves to tighten it up since the rubber shrunk a little over time.
Kevin, have you tested the popular 15-50 synthetic car oil in any of your test? A few years ago on Wikipedia , there was a article on the early development of the twin cam which talked about the oil injectors at the base of the cylinders. The first version did not have the high pressure relief. Harley learned that at idle with no airflow, the engine would overheat the oil. Basically, the engine could take more heat then the oil for brief periods. They put the 12-18 lb open relief on them so the only work above idle rpm. A while back, this article was deleted. Probable because the Motor Company did not like it.
Kevin, have you tested the popular 15-50 synthetic car oil in any of your test? A few years ago on Wikipedia , there was a article on the early development of the twin cam which talked about the oil injectors at the base of the cylinders. The first version did not have the high pressure relief. Harley learned that at idle with no airflow, the engine would overheat the oil. Basically, the engine could take more heat then the oil for brief periods. They put the 12-18 lb open relief on them so the only work above idle rpm. A while back, this article was deleted. Probable because the Motor Company did not like it.
Yes, while it lubricates well, it does not appear that the polymer viscosity modifiers hold up well to the heat that the Twin Cam engines develop. This results in a less viscous oil at operating temperature, evidenced by the louder top end noise that many hear when running this oil.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,490
Likes: 4,051
From: South Fla
Two of the H-D oil digitals went out as fast as put in when bike was new. Cooled the motor by a tune which should no longer burn out the high heat sensitive H-D screw-in electronic sender.
But will let the 3rd warranty replacement stay unused in its plastic on the shelf due to all the thieves wanting an easy quick pickin while your parked doing your thing down here. What a friken zoo it's become down here!
But will let the 3rd warranty replacement stay unused in its plastic on the shelf due to all the thieves wanting an easy quick pickin while your parked doing your thing down here. What a friken zoo it's become down here!
Last edited by 13dino; Dec 23, 2015 at 12:46 AM.