4 piston rear caliper from Performance Machine.
#31
Thanks Chris! That is exactly what I found, so they should put the same pressure out. I haven't looked up what the bore size of the 4 piston Harley caliper yet, but it would have to be an improvement on pressure over my 2 piston caliper even if it was a 1" bore. When Craig rides his street bob to work again i'm going to see what size his master cyl. is before I do anything.
#32
#33
#34
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I run a PM 4 piston rear with stock brake pads-works fine.
Of course a brake pad company says their product works great-they are trying to sell you something. Use your head-more pistons=more surface area and pressure applied to a surface.
That said, I never, ever, lean on my rear brake. Rookies' first instinct is to slam their rear brake in a panic stop (guy cuts in front of you instantly)....guess what, it locks up and you are now at the mercy of physics at that point, unless you know how to make a motor cross move (release rear brake during stop at a specific moment for bike position movement). Always focus on the front brake, always, and keep your body in the correct stopping mode and position on the bike and practice....a lot.
That means 40-70 mph alley, parking lot, or abandoned street testing to slam on the brakes, measured from a marked point, over and over, and see what your best distance is that you can stop.
Of course a brake pad company says their product works great-they are trying to sell you something. Use your head-more pistons=more surface area and pressure applied to a surface.
That said, I never, ever, lean on my rear brake. Rookies' first instinct is to slam their rear brake in a panic stop (guy cuts in front of you instantly)....guess what, it locks up and you are now at the mercy of physics at that point, unless you know how to make a motor cross move (release rear brake during stop at a specific moment for bike position movement). Always focus on the front brake, always, and keep your body in the correct stopping mode and position on the bike and practice....a lot.
That means 40-70 mph alley, parking lot, or abandoned street testing to slam on the brakes, measured from a marked point, over and over, and see what your best distance is that you can stop.
You are right about the front brake doing the majority of the stopping though.
I'll stop here.
#35
Sounds like a lot of effort for little gains. Could care less how bad my rear brakes are. Machining, bore, etc just for a device that serves minimal gains. my rear brake is just for decoration or when my right hand is fatigue at most. To each their own. Plenty of other things to upgrade versusar rear brake to gain that minimal extra stopping power. But heck...if your ocd , and have time, crack open a beer and go for it.
and yes...your old, 40 bikes. Maybe u need that foot brake. My young thunder grip is still healthy and strong. 40 bikes and still relying on rear brake...we have an expert here.
and yes...your old, 40 bikes. Maybe u need that foot brake. My young thunder grip is still healthy and strong. 40 bikes and still relying on rear brake...we have an expert here.
Last edited by bigbadpoppa; 04-01-2017 at 11:27 PM.
#36
#37
#38
Sounds like a lot of effort for little gains. Could care less how bad my rear brakes are. Machining, bore, etc just for a device that serves minimal gains. my rear brake is just for decoration or when my right hand is fatigue at most. To each their own. Plenty of other things to upgrade versusar rear brake to gain that minimal extra stopping power. But heck...if your ocd , and have time, crack open a beer and go for it.
and yes...your old, 40 bikes. Maybe u need that foot brake. My young thunder grip is still healthy and strong. 40 bikes and still relying on rear brake...we have an expert here.
and yes...your old, 40 bikes. Maybe u need that foot brake. My young thunder grip is still healthy and strong. 40 bikes and still relying on rear brake...we have an expert here.
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