Rusty studs
the PB blaster worked, all 4 came off no problems.
air cleaner and power vision installed today, new S&S exhaust will be here tomorrow, this evening i went to the hardware store and picked up new nuts for the install tomorrow evening.
air cleaner and power vision installed today, new S&S exhaust will be here tomorrow, this evening i went to the hardware store and picked up new nuts for the install tomorrow evening.
Blaster is my First Option, usually works if it don't Heat and Blaster Both, never had a problem going that route ..
I do have both types I’ll have to look at my copper to see exactly the temperature rating on it but thank you very much for the heads up!
I'll bet it's higher than the silver. I work on BMW especially old "airheads" and I've learned to use the copper on the exhaust parts. Never failed me yet. I have seen the silver glob up and fail on those same parts.
ok, the copper base is 2000deg, the aluminum base is 1600deg, thats not much but I'll use the copper...
update:
UPS still has not delivered my frickin exhaust.. still shows "out for delivery"...
sons of bitches...
update:
UPS still has not delivered my frickin exhaust.. still shows "out for delivery"...
sons of bitches...
I am faced with this problem almost weekly in other situations. Many times by the time I see it there's a broken easy out or tap to deal with, then the customer asks why it took an hour?
Penetrating oil along with heat helps a lot! Everyone seems to have very good suggestions!!
I would use high heat as a last resort.
42 yrs experience and still learning.
Based on my experiences at work where we built systems with 15+ year service lives in harsh environments, I use Loctite LB-8009 heavy duty anti-seize. It's metal free, graphite based, good for all metals (copper with aluminum is bad), and good to 2300F...
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797877895169
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797877895169



