Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Uptown Ripper

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #41  
Old 03-08-2019, 07:10 AM
HD_Matt's Avatar
HD_Matt
HD_Matt is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 231
Received 13 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by misfitJason
I have the longer bracket for the true track. It doesn't drop down. It is just longer. My 13 1/2 inch shocks make the bracket hit the swingarm almost when the bike is on the lift and no weight

Is this the one you have? It says it does drop it down to clear the swingarm

Sorry for going off topic
 
  #42  
Old 03-08-2019, 05:32 PM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by HD_Matt
Just curious if you have installed the rear Sputhe stabilizer?
No. I wanted to see the difference the shocks and front cartridges make first.

Dave
 
  #43  
Old 03-11-2019, 08:45 AM
misfitJason's Avatar
misfitJason
misfitJason is online now
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,572
Received 1,030 Likes on 651 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by HD_Matt

Is this the one you have? It says it does drop it down to clear the swingarm

Sorry for going off topic
No that's not what mine looks like. It's shorter where it should be longer. That makes sense now. I got my true track kit used and had to order that rear piece separately and called to order the 20-30mb part. The stock one is what they sent me I guess. But I never had anything to compare to until now.
 
  #44  
Old 04-16-2019, 06:27 PM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

It is finished (just the exhaust):



I got my cake, and I can eat it too. The “Thunderheader-ish” look, but can lean without scrapin’. A huge thanks to Tanner at Fab 28 for nailing it.

Dave
 

Last edited by TOE_CUTTER; 04-16-2019 at 06:30 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by TOE_CUTTER:
HumbleAsshole (08-15-2022), leachman (01-23-2022), NMU (08-11-2019), not_so_newb (10-20-2020)
  #45  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:05 PM
Qdog002's Avatar
Qdog002
Qdog002 is offline
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,492
Received 866 Likes on 546 Posts
Default

Looks killer!! Be sure to shield your bags from the hot exhaust.
 
  #46  
Old 06-12-2019, 11:33 PM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

Well, got some good news and bad news today.

First the good news, the 117 is going to become a 124!

The bad news, the cause of the good news is because of scoring on the small end bores of the stock connecting rods and piston pins.

The 117 stock crankshaft assembly was gone thru, trued, welded, and balanced, but the design of the small end of the stock rods didn't like the power and rpm. I would be money ahead if I had bit the bullet and went for the S&S assembly to begin with.

The other good news is the build is going for 150+ hp. We'll see what happens.

Dave
 
The following users liked this post:
NMU (08-11-2019)
  #47  
Old 06-13-2019, 12:04 AM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

I noticed I didn't post after the pic of the exhaust that lead up to finding out the news today. I am trying to chronologically list everything on this build.

After the exhaust was finished the bike went back to RC Cycles. Ron had commented before on how the cover over the now-defunct tank gauge cluster looked, so he has a metal worker who does aircraft parts to modify the console. After jacking up the rear, you can see the inner bracket mount on the rear fender. It was painted grey, so getting that powder coated black. After discussion with Ron about the power, and me wanting more, he recommended a T-Man 662-1 cam. Along with that to also bump up the compression by using domed pistons. There is some other small cometic items and mechanical things being done as well.

The heads got pulled right away and sent out for new valve springs for the new cam, and they came back. Today they started tearing into the motor, and the scoring got discovered.

I did ride the bike for a short 5-minute ride from my house to RC's after getting the exhaust done and suspension work. The bike had a COMPLETELY different feel, and after the motor work is done, it will be totally different than before. I have the itch bad to ride.

Dave
 
  #48  
Old 08-08-2019, 10:55 PM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

Little update. All the parts are in for the motor and re-assembly can begin. The S&S crankshaft assembly was custom ordered and that took the longest to get in. Going to go with an external breather system, like what T-man does with his, except just running the hose to the ground.

Also changing out the final belt drive for a chain drive. Have everything listed in this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...2006-dyna.html

Mainly doing the above hunting for the 150+ hp. Looking for a the broadest torque curve, so every trick is being used to get that and the hp.

Going to do something a little different. The Sputhe Positrac is getting installed along with with the Custom Cycle Engineering Adjustable front motor mount. After the motor is in, everything is going to be installed except the gas tank and muffler. Going to take the bike then to GP Frame and Wheel in Sacramento and get everything aligned. After alignment, the rear and front stabilizer links will be removed. I want to see if we're going to need them or not on the street. If the bike still feels like a wet noodle at high speeds, then I can easily install the links to see if it tightens it up. I want to see if the Ohlins suspension front and rear cures the wet noodle feel first.

These upgrades have definitely been a journey.

Dave
 
  #49  
Old 08-08-2019, 11:58 PM
F86's Avatar
F86
F86 is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Philly Suburbs
Posts: 2,840
Received 898 Likes on 599 Posts
Default

Sounds like an AWESOME engine build! But remember... Suspension can't keep the swingarm from responding to lateral engine movement, which is what the stabilizers are for. Maaaybe that crank is so balanced that lateral engine movement will be reduced. But I kinda feel like the bigger and more powerful an engine, the more it needs to be stabilized. Also, with improved suspension it probably WILL feel better than it had, but that doesn't mean it's optimal... Why not alter your experiment a little... Get used to the bike with the stabilizer in place, then take it off and see if you can tell the difference... I'll be interested in the answer (for real).
 
  #50  
Old 08-09-2019, 01:52 AM
TOE_CUTTER's Avatar
TOE_CUTTER
TOE_CUTTER is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 815
Received 285 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by F86
Sounds like an AWESOME engine build! But remember... Suspension can't keep the swingarm from responding to lateral engine movement, which is what the stabilizers are for. Maaaybe that crank is so balanced that lateral engine movement will be reduced. But I kinda feel like the bigger and more powerful an engine, the more it needs to be stabilized. Also, with improved suspension it probably WILL feel better than it had, but that doesn't mean it's optimal... Why not alter your experiment a little... Get used to the bike with the stabilizer in place, then take it off and see if you can tell the difference... I'll be interested in the answer (for real).
I have been thinking along the lines of making a change, seeing how it feels, and then moving on to another change.

Your input in another thread:

Originally Posted by F86
Lots of factors could cause something on two wheels to become unstable, but when the term "Dyna Death Wobble" is used it usually refers to something more specific than that, and once the chassis design is really understood it's clear why this particular condition wouldn't happen to a non-Dyna. It's still a confusing set of circumstances to correct, because there are many potential factors that could cause it. But the result is that the rear wheel in some conditions will move in an unwanted manner either vertically or in the yaw axis. The resulting "rear steer" will make the bike wobble, vibrate, weave, or shimmy. This is a Dyna-only condition because it stems from the swingarm being attached directly to the engine/tranny, which is rubber mounted and moves around. It won't happen on an FXR (for example), because the swingarm is located in the frame.

Sorry to recap stuff that most people know, but for those who don't, here is the basic Dyna architecture:

There are two distinct halves to a Dyna: The front wheel, fork, and frame are one assembly. The rear wheel, swingarm, engine and transmission are a completely separate assembly. The two assemblies are connected to each other purely by the two rubber engine mounts, one in the front of the engine, the other on the back of the transmission. The top link is really just a stabilizer/locater for alignment purposes, and isn't really a structural link between the two halves. Any and all movement incurred by the engine is directly carried through the transmission to the swingarm and the rear wheel. If the engine vibrates in the longitudinal chassis plane, this isn't much of an issue. If it vibrates left to right, the swingarm and rear wheel move left to right. If the engine swings like a pendulum from the top link, the rear tire actually rolls onto it's sidewalls a little bit, back and forth. The purpose of all the different aftermarket stabilizers is to limit lateral engine movement, while allowing enough longitudinal movement to keep unwanted vibration in check. This architecture explains why a Dyna is much more sensitive to all chassis adjustments/issues than some bikes are... Air pressure, wheel bearings, steering bearings, swingarm bearings, and particularly drivetrain alignment... That's why the same outcome can be difficult to diagnose from bike to bike.

The good news is that when properly setup, a Dyna chassis is actually a very good handling platform.

and an excerpt from Victory Tech Papers, Motorcycle Chassis Design and Modification:

"what a “great handling” frame does: keep the steering head in exactly the same juxtaposition with the swing-arm mount under all conditions, nothing more nor less"
These two things got me thinking about how important alignment can be to prevent the wobble. There is a YouTube poster, Unruly Biker, who installed a 124" motor in his Street Bob. He used a Chopper Hauss front motor mount. He got the non-adjustable one. First time he goes 80-90 in a sweeper, bam, his handlebars starts wobbling, and he just about ***** his pants. Long story short, he had to get an adjustable mount from Chopper Hauss and a professional aligned his bike. No more wobble. I have a theory (mind you I could be full of ****) that is it frame mis-alignment, plus the fact of not having "good" suspension, that caused the "wet noodle" feeling of my bike. Mind you, this was occurring at 120+ mph speeds.

I have made so many changes, that it might be best as you suggest to just run with the links on and if the vibrations are not bad, and it runs on rails, make notes, and then try without. The crankshaft assembly was balanced, so vibrations should be minimal.

Thanks for the complement on the build.

Dave
 

Last edited by TOE_CUTTER; 08-09-2019 at 01:54 AM.


Quick Reply: Uptown Ripper



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:20 PM.