Torque your battery bolts.

 

Check your batter during a start and see how far it drops. Just cause a battery sits high voltage doesnt mean it's good.

my first battery only lasted me 2.5 years and it was on a tender.

 

Torqued the battery bolts a little more, they were pretty snug, at most I moved them an eight of a turn. Checked the negative frame connection and it seemed good, couldn't get to the positive one right now.

Read at 13v after sitting for about 10 minutes, then my voltmeter went out so I'll have to get another one before I can check it further, I had planned on checking it as I started it up and then that thing died, go figure. Started right up after checking things, started only a little slow when bringing it home.

Normal = wer-wer-wer *catch*
Dead battery = weeeeer *pause* weeeeeer *pause* weeeeer *stumble catch*
Current = wer *pause* wer *pause* wer *pause* quick catch

Well, still guessing it's the battery. I checked what I could right now. Almost time to do my 10k service, might as well have that checked then too. Might not even be a problem other than being a couple years old and a little cold, just don't want it to not work on my way to work, lol.

Battery recommendations or just use the ones the dealer sells?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Do a cranking voltage test. That's the best test you can do. Should sit above 9.6 V or more. You may need a buddy to help out since u need to keep the voltmeter connected to the bike while u crank.

 

The Yuasa battery seems to be very highly rated. Amazon sells them at a good price, I believe. Lots of posts on that subject.

Not a real comparison, but I'm super happy with my Antigravity battery. It and the new 1.2kW starter spin my little 88 like it's not even there. Usually starts on the very first compression stroke...but that's also part of having a carb. No need to wait for the ECU to count cranking pulses.

 

 

This is what I did to determine my battery was the culprit. Cranking volts dropped into the 8 range. Took the battery in and it was toast. It would hold its 12.5 not running, and 14.xx when running, so I knew the voltage regulator was working.

 

If you get a tender, be sure to get a good quality one. I think I've seen more batteries fail on cheap tenders than "untended".

I never leave the tender on all the time. In the winter, I put each battery on the tender for a day or so once a month.

 

Get into the habit of always holding start button till bike is running on all cylinders and always keeps running when you let off. The starter has a sprag run away clutch, so there is no danger. FI systems do not like multiple hits on starter and get confused, flood and make slow starts on second crank. Also rough on soliniod since ever contact is a start on its life. (Sorry about spelling. On my phone)

 

So battery checked out to be good. Dealer couldn't figure it out, doesnt help that it's a random problem and didn't happen for them.

So yep. 2 months left on the warranty...

Would string barametric changes effect anything? Did get colder and more rainy but the barametric changes can be extreme out here. It started when fall showed up.

Did notice they adjusted my clutch cable and changed the spark plugs, guess we will see. Probably some stupid gremlin somewhere. Only thing I've added electrical is a volomod and a led 3rd brake light. It just gets its power from a tail light, had no problems with my past bikes with this very unit and I've had it on for several months...