Normal behavior or?
I agree; my first thought was a loose connection. I just had that myself and melted a battery terminal trying to crank it that way. A loose connection will act like a dead battery. Just be sure to clean both the terminal and the cable when you re-do the connections at the battery.
You will also need to replace that battery before long. 9.3V is too low for a crank test. If you put the tender on it, it may come back, but you're probably going to need a new battery soon anyway.
You will also need to replace that battery before long. 9.3V is too low for a crank test. If you put the tender on it, it may come back, but you're probably going to need a new battery soon anyway.
5 year old, exposed, electrical connections at the Florida coast? You may have loose and/or corroded connection(s), somewhere. The heat & humidity can play intermittent havoc with a bad connection, a strong battery will overcome only so much. Pull the battery box out, for easy access to the ground wires behind. Take these apart, clean the connectors & ground stud/bolt really well. Do the same at the starter & battery. There are various things you can do to slow corrosion, I like a thin coat of anti-seize on my wire connectors. When you get it cleaned & running, check charging voltage at the battery. Anybody that rides a vibrating machine near the coast can expect this to be regular maintenance. Also, get the battery tender.
Don't put loctite on any bolt that is used for electrical connections. The face of the terminal that faces the nut provides half of your connection to the bolt. If there is loctite between the bolt and the nut it will not conduct properly. You'd basically be making a dirty terminal connection and defeat the purpose.
Originally Posted by Jay Guild;[url=tel:20183812
20183812[/url]]Don't put loctite on any bolt that is used for electrical connections. The face of the terminal that faces the nut provides half of your connection to the bolt. If there is loctite between the bolt and the nut it will not conduct properly. You'd basically be making a dirty terminal connection and defeat the purpose.
thanks Jay
I'd suggest using a YUASA brand battery, unless you want to go high tech. High tech batteries are significantly lighter/smaller & STRONGER than lead/acid batteries. A good lith-ion battery would be an Anti-Gravity W/restart. Yeah, it'll be double the price of the lead/acid battery. But, it's also twice the battery.
You can find lead/acid batteries at www.batterymart.com
For lith-ion, you may have to go to www.Rockymountainatvmc.com . (You just missed the 30% off Labor Day sale.)
Don't put loctite on any bolt that is used for electrical connections. The face of the terminal that faces the nut provides half of your connection to the bolt. If there is loctite between the bolt and the nut it will not conduct properly. You'd basically be making a dirty terminal connection and defeat the purpose.
I only do that on my Dyna though because I’ve had the terminals work loose before on aftermarket batteries. The Harley batteries hold better but I still use blue locktite after my experience.
All three of my bikes have a smidgen of blue locktite on the bolt attaching the cables to the battery, and no problems. During the spring months I check cables for corrosion at the battery bolt and at the ground studs, in fact all the major cable connections get looked at. On my 02 last year I found some corroded wires under the terminal eye on the ground wire. Living on the coast area corrosion control is a never ending job. Short rides under 2500 rpms are just giving your battery a surface charge. Your bike is pulling power while riding with low rpms and the bike runs off your battery not the alternator. A smart tender is a good idea, the pigtail for it should already be installed. Enjoy the ride.
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lee4green
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
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Mar 9, 2012 01:10 PM















