NEED Shorter Forward Controls
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 342
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From: Wasteland Mi
NEED Shorter Forward Controls
Ok heres my problem
Factory seat would launch me off seat during hard shifts, so i bought a Mustang Custom Squareback. Now the Mustang seat sits a little lower ( not a problem ), But now I also sit back another 1-1/2" to 2". And my feet just reach the pegs fully extended, I cant even kick my heels up on the pegs now.
Does Any One make anything to move the Forward Controls BACK twards the rider, for the 06-10 Dyna's.
Larry
Factory seat would launch me off seat during hard shifts, so i bought a Mustang Custom Squareback. Now the Mustang seat sits a little lower ( not a problem ), But now I also sit back another 1-1/2" to 2". And my feet just reach the pegs fully extended, I cant even kick my heels up on the pegs now.
Does Any One make anything to move the Forward Controls BACK twards the rider, for the 06-10 Dyna's.
Larry
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Detroit Michigan
you can tie some peices of 2x4 to the controls, it helped my daughter on her big wheel 
or put a telephone book behind you 
nah iam joking. 
in a goofy mood tonight
just get some sheet metal pretty thick but no more then a 1/4in.thick drill the hole pattern of the controls twice but about 1 or 1.5 apart from one another, make sure though it doesnt interfer with your exhaust, now trim the sheet metal after so it looks like a bracket that suppose to look like its on the bike. use the front holes to mount to the bike and the other holes for your controls. but your not done yet, you will have to cut your brake rod the same amount that you moved your controls back then weld the rod back together, dont worry you really cant see your brake rod anyways. wait your still not done you will have to shorten your shifter rod also but you can get them in all different sizes for cheap, unless you want to cut and weld that also. jackyl
or put a telephone book behind you nah iam joking. in a goofy mood tonightjust get some sheet metal pretty thick but no more then a 1/4in.thick drill the hole pattern of the controls twice but about 1 or 1.5 apart from one another, make sure though it doesnt interfer with your exhaust, now trim the sheet metal after so it looks like a bracket that suppose to look like its on the bike. use the front holes to mount to the bike and the other holes for your controls. but your not done yet, you will have to cut your brake rod the same amount that you moved your controls back then weld the rod back together, dont worry you really cant see your brake rod anyways. wait your still not done you will have to shorten your shifter rod also but you can get them in all different sizes for cheap, unless you want to cut and weld that also. jackyl
Last edited by jackyl; Sep 24, 2009 at 09:05 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
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From: Republic of Texas
Man, I need to manufacture these things and do the brake rods on the exchange basis. LOL.
I had the similiar problem so I made me a set up reduced reach brackets out of 1/4" steel plate. You can only move the controls back 1 1/4" because any closer and the shifter will hit the primary. If you move the controls back 1 1/4" you will have to remove 1 1/4" from the back end of the brake rod by cutting the threaded part from the rod then cutting 1 1/4" from the main rod and then weld the threaded rod back onto the main rod. The shifter rod does not have to be modified because you can remove the shift arm at the foot controls and reposition it. When I made the brackets I welded the nuts on the backside of the brackets for the controls so that I would not have to try and get a wrench on them. I purchased all new stainless 3/8" allen head bolts because the 2 factory bolts on each side are kind of shity.
The finished brackets ready for paint.
The brake side.
The shifter side.
I had the similiar problem so I made me a set up reduced reach brackets out of 1/4" steel plate. You can only move the controls back 1 1/4" because any closer and the shifter will hit the primary. If you move the controls back 1 1/4" you will have to remove 1 1/4" from the back end of the brake rod by cutting the threaded part from the rod then cutting 1 1/4" from the main rod and then weld the threaded rod back onto the main rod. The shifter rod does not have to be modified because you can remove the shift arm at the foot controls and reposition it. When I made the brackets I welded the nuts on the backside of the brackets for the controls so that I would not have to try and get a wrench on them. I purchased all new stainless 3/8" allen head bolts because the 2 factory bolts on each side are kind of shity.
The finished brackets ready for paint.
The brake side.
The shifter side.
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From: Everywhere, USA
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Republic of Texas
It took awhile to get my wife to let me film her but she finally gave in. LOL
Not really, it's just some random text pick a buddy sent to my phone.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 342
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From: Wasteland Mi
I'm getting lazy i didnt want to end up making this one but looks like ill have to.
As for the seat the OEM was in perfect position, I just wanted more back support and the thing to keep me on the seat under hard WOT Shifts.
The Squareback according to Mustang is supposed to position 1" closer but they are wrong.
Thanks Guys
As for the seat the OEM was in perfect position, I just wanted more back support and the thing to keep me on the seat under hard WOT Shifts.
The Squareback according to Mustang is supposed to position 1" closer but they are wrong.
Thanks Guys
I also don't know if you have checked out the threads on mini floor boards. I put a set on mine and it helped tremendously.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...oor-board.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...oor-board.html