I would run it in series with your existing ignition, then just leave your ignition on. When you want to go, just flick the hidden switch on.
That way, you'll still be able to lock your ignition if you're away from your bike someplace.

BTW, I would find a better color (possibly black) for your hidden switch, instead of a "Red Illuminated Glow" switch. Then it would blend in better.

 

I am confused. If you wired a toggle switch between the ignition cable and the positive terminal, then you wired them in parallel allowing you to use either the switch or key to start the bike. No more security of needing a key at all??? As ngoi8tor said, they really need to be in series...

SCRATCH THAT. Never mind. good job!

 

Carrying on from previous contributors, my 2004 XL883C has a neat vent hole in the rear face of the speedo casing - just big enough for the threaded shaft of a 30-amp plunger switch that I just happen to have lying around. So I'm thinkin' - put switch in t'ole, with two electrical cables from it (it's only a single-pole switch, with two terminals), If there's enough space behind the speedo itself. If there is, install switch, run wires down alongside other electrics to area of ignition (key), switch, cut cables to old switch at least three inches from switch body and remove old switch. Use the space to fit an external 12v GPS power socket (that'll be another article, somewhen), and connect one of the two wires from your hidden switch to the (red) battery supply cable into the old switch. Join the other two, striped, cables from old ignition switch together - one is lights & the other ignition, so they're both On when you're riding anyway - and join that pair to the other wire from your hidden switch. Put tank back on & tidy everything up, then to start the bike, pop the plunger switch in with a finger - you can't even see it from off the bike - hit the engine start button and away you go. The kill switch still works, so you have a keyless system that is safe, with no scratchy keys dangling in the breeze. Comments?

 

Makes good sense. Having a dangling key would bug me, too. But I have the console ignition switch. I didn't think about it 'til mentioned above, but did your setup lose your head light that is normally ON with the key switch? Or is the headlight controlled through a relay, instead of contacts made inside the key switch?

 

+1 to that

I've toyed around with the idea of adding the center dash from a wg on my bob, I think it looks friggin great, but it also opens you up to more security issues. I just got a couple spare keys a couple months ago, and decided last week, I'm gonna sacrifice one of em and try the grinding method. Sure enough, ground the nubb off and I can turn the igntion on and remove it, keep it in my pocket, heck now I can put in on my key ring with house keys, where as before I didn't want all those keys or the weight, clanging on the neck. I'm pretty pleased with this result.

 

not to steal your thread but i have a 99 fxd and am swapping tanks to a softail tank with the ignition in the dash ,want to lose thee switch on the side and just go with the console ignition (3 pole switch) any one have any information on wiring it up

 

I would really like to do this type of Mod.. but I would want it so that the key has to be in, and the toggle has to be switched to allow the bike to run.. I don't have any alarm system, and this seems to be a good security measure. idk in case someone jacked my keys, or had a universal or something. how would I do this as far as wiring?
i'm pretty novice at wiring, just have done a few things in the past... would appreciate a step by step with clear instructions.. it would help me out.. thanks all

J.

 

I just started a new thread which I hope will answer your questions about wiring.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...witch-mod.html

 

Do you have some pic of which nubb your talking about?

 

For you, yes I do,



See the difference in the keys, that's all that holds the key in the ignition cylinder.