When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I am guessing this is a typo in the manual.
It says:
"....Secure with adjusting nut (5). Tighten the adjusting nut until there is noticeable shake or freeplay between the bearings and races. Fork stem must turn freely from side to side."
Shouldn't it say "until there is NO noticeable shake or freeplay..."
It would appear by the design of the adjusting nut you should hand tighten and if you leave "shake or freeplay" no matter how tight you make the Fork Stem Nut it would continue to have shake/freeplay.
for those of you who have done this job before how tight did you make the adjusting nut?
Yeah that doesn't seem right to me.... its not something you want shaking around on you down the road.
I'd treat it like spark plugs... get them snug, then quarter turn to half turn. Unlike spark plugs, a little Loctite would most def. be a good thing. Post pics Bro! Lets see how it turns out.
just had the trees and lowers (and a bunch of other goodies) powdered. Got a lot of work to do. Still gotta paint the darn thing, put the new alternator in put my new tires on, new rear shocks, do a little wiring, wrap the pipes. Way too long a list.
My manual reads correct stating "until no no freeplay." But, when I torqued the stem nut down it caused my front end to become tighter when moving from side to side. I got it all back together and no I'm worried about the "fall away." I may take it in to the stealer to make sure I got it right though.
I tightened mine up to the point of resistance in the bearings. You'll feel it be a touch too tight and the bearing no longer feel smooth as they did. Then I backed it off till it was smooth and there was no binding(maybe about 1/8-1/4 turn back). Then I torqued the stem nut and all is well. nice smooth action and it is a tight as you I can go without any binding. Never any clunk or problems. You can go through the hassle of a fall away test, but, as long as it is smooth, not binding, and there is no clunk, your good to go.
Thanks for the advice Rounder. I'll set mine up like that tomorrow. I rode a bit today and notice a clunk when I applied the brakes. I felt much different thank the clunk I had before I tore it down. Thanks again.
I fought that damn fall away test for a couple of hours with no luck! Tried everything from no caliper, no clutch cable, no brake line, grips, nothitng but bars, etc.. and still couldnt get it with in spec.. close, but not to spec. I simply did pretty much as stated above. Tighten until resistance is felt, tighten another1/4 turn or until binding, then back it off until it is smooth and no clunk. I may still have mine a little on the tight side as it is wanting to lean off to the left when i take my hands of the bars when traveling down the road. When I powdered my tree, i didnt tape off the hole where the upper part of the adjuster nut seats in the tree, so as the powder wears in that area, i have to adjust it.
If anyone else has an opinion to why the bike wants to lean off to the left and no go straight when I take my hands off the bars, feel free to let me know. PM me please.
I tightened mine up to the point of resistance in the bearings. You'll feel it be a touch too tight and the bearing no longer feel smooth as they did. Then I backed it off till it was smooth and there was no binding(maybe about 1/8-1/4 turn back). Then I torqued the stem nut and all is well. nice smooth action and it is a tight as you I can go without any binding. Never any clunk or problems. You can go through the hassle of a fall away test, but, as long as it is smooth, not binding, and there is no clunk, your good to go.
I usually agree with rounder - and he's dead on once again.
I did my front end with a buddy who's a bus/truck/car mechanic. When it came time to tighten things up he cranked it until in was no longer smooth then he backed it off about 1/8 turn ..... I mentioned "fall away" - he said that we could do it as the manual suggested but it seemed unnecessary ... That was 3 years ago and it's still perfect.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.