I have a question for Street Bob with forward controls
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
Went with the Custom Chrome. Left the shaft in the primary in case I ever wanted to go back to mids. Spent 10 bucks extra on a slick little chrome cap to cap it off. Install took less than 1 hour. I try to aviod the dealer whenever possible. As long as we keep bringing simple jobs to them they will keep raking us over the coals on costs. Its totally common for dealers to get a grand or better to install freakin' handle bars, and three guys have already mentioned less than 1 hour install on these controls. So where is the dealer coming up with 300 plus dollars......no where, they are just looking for suckers. Step up, get friends to help, do it yourself. No better feeling in the world than working on your own motorcycle. Well, almost no better feeling.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Franklinton, NC
http://www.axiomcycles.com/pages/ite...temsection=156
I dont know if you've done price comparisons, these are the ones I bought. Your existing pegs will fit. this kit comes with brake and shifter pegs. Like everyone says, it's no biggie to put them on. You can use your mid-pegs and put them on the back to get rid of the ugly little black ones that come with the bike. I still have my instructions, if you want I can scan them in and email them to you before you take the "leap" send me a pm if you want them.
I dont know if you've done price comparisons, these are the ones I bought. Your existing pegs will fit. this kit comes with brake and shifter pegs. Like everyone says, it's no biggie to put them on. You can use your mid-pegs and put them on the back to get rid of the ugly little black ones that come with the bike. I still have my instructions, if you want I can scan them in and email them to you before you take the "leap" send me a pm if you want them.
Stage IV
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
When you put your forward controls on did u open the primary and do it the "right way", or not. I'm about to put forward controls on my 2009 Street Bob and could use a little advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
leescroggs@gmail.com
leescroggs@gmail.com
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
When you put your forward controls on did u open the primary and do it the "right way", or not. I'm about to put forward controls on my 2009 Street Bob and could use a little advice. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
leescroggs@gmail.com
leescroggs@gmail.com
Do it yourself without doing any unnecessary work......Call it the wrong way, the right way, or just thinking for yourself way.
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTM EN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/2760/afterapril2020081020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/4373/saturdaymarch292008059kp3.jpg
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTM EN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/2760/afterapril2020081020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/4373/saturdaymarch292008059kp3.jpg
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Apr 1, 2010 at 10:35 PM.
Stage IV
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
First off, thank you so much for all your help so far. So, if I have this right, I should buy the 2005 kit (p/n 49080-03a) right. Not the one for '06 and up (my bike is an '09). Do I also need to buy a longer shift rod that is for the '06s and newer? Is there pics anywhere of this install? Thanks again!
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
Anyone Run Mid Controls only? -
before you make your decision