steering dampner
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 258
Likes: 2
From: Millington NJ
Steering damper
Picture of my steering damper, if you do not want the death wobble a damper is a must. It completely makes the bike 100 percent more stable. I have a Drag Specialties, cost around 200 dollars well worth the feeling of safety I get with the bike. They make models for many different bikes. Cheaper then a Hyperpro RSC active control damper made for all out racing. You think Harley would put them on the bikes for safety.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/membe...6-damper1.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/membe...6-damper1.html
Last edited by Lennyone; Dec 7, 2010 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Miss spell
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
Likes: 453
From: Davie, FL
I personally have not ever had a steering wobble & been riding since 1965. Others have wanted them so I incorporated them on my new Mid Glide trees. I threaded holes in the under side of the bottom of the triple tree and through the brake manifold.
I wish I now would have taken pictures. I started with a Type: SD 115: Stroke: 63 mm Mounting length/(max/min): 34.5 / 221.5 mm. Remember that the steering damper wears out and must be rebuilt. The suggested Service intervals:
* Road use: Every 10.000 km (6.500 miles).
* Road racing: Every 20 hours.
Always replace the rubber reservoir 2213-01 when changing oil. Yes, you must change the oil and you would use 5W fork oil.
The advantages with a very short unit are: it can mount latterly and the second mounting point is in the center of the down tubes utilizing the hole in the bracket under the neck. I am going to use a Tiller for the end eye (shaft) and the clamp bolt (heim joint) is bolted to thew aforementioned bracket under the neck. When installed, the unit is pretty much hidden as it is parallel with the bottom triple tree and pivots with the triple tree. It is shorter than the triple tree so nothing hangs out. This mounting makes for maximum leverage as it is parallel and is not a ratio degrading the performance. Look carefully and you will see the matching threaded holes and the through holes in the manifold. I see no reason why this method of mounting could not be done on a stock set of trees. The tiller must drop down quite a bit or you will wind up with a damper being on an angle facing up to the tree.
For touring you can tighten up the damper for highway use. One more thing I have to get around to.
I wish I now would have taken pictures. I started with a Type: SD 115: Stroke: 63 mm Mounting length/(max/min): 34.5 / 221.5 mm. Remember that the steering damper wears out and must be rebuilt. The suggested Service intervals:
* Road use: Every 10.000 km (6.500 miles).
* Road racing: Every 20 hours.
Always replace the rubber reservoir 2213-01 when changing oil. Yes, you must change the oil and you would use 5W fork oil.
The advantages with a very short unit are: it can mount latterly and the second mounting point is in the center of the down tubes utilizing the hole in the bracket under the neck. I am going to use a Tiller for the end eye (shaft) and the clamp bolt (heim joint) is bolted to thew aforementioned bracket under the neck. When installed, the unit is pretty much hidden as it is parallel with the bottom triple tree and pivots with the triple tree. It is shorter than the triple tree so nothing hangs out. This mounting makes for maximum leverage as it is parallel and is not a ratio degrading the performance. Look carefully and you will see the matching threaded holes and the through holes in the manifold. I see no reason why this method of mounting could not be done on a stock set of trees. The tiller must drop down quite a bit or you will wind up with a damper being on an angle facing up to the tree.
For touring you can tighten up the damper for highway use. One more thing I have to get around to.
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