I changed my battery on Friday and noticed that voltmeter was showing that I was overcharging the system and it would throw a check engine light. When I first start the bike it is fine and if the RPM's are low I don't have a problem but when the RPMs rev up the system goes into an over charge state and starts throwing codes. I changed the battery back to the old one and it still did the same thing. I even changed the Voltage regulator and it made no difference. Anyone have any other suggestions before I start digging into the primary?

 

Verify the voltage, using a multi-meter, at the battery while the bike is idling and at 2000 rpm the highest voltage should be 14.2-14.5 v. If the voltage is good the volt gauge could be bad.

 

Will check it out, I forgot to mention that the fault codes were b0365 (I think) b1006 and b1007. I checked them all out and they were basically all the same... "votage overcharge"

 

Your bike might have had an overcharging situation with your old battery if it was going bad and maybe the new battery is not fully charged so the same codes are showing up.
I would charge the new battery fully and clear any codes before using.

Mike

 

Hey Mike, thanks... I did fully charge the new battery before putting it in the bike. Battery was a YUASA that requires you to activate the battery prior to putting it in the bike. Thought it might have been the battery and why I decided to put the old one back in... beginning to think the change of the battery may not have been the issue, but what caused the final failure... just trying to see what other places to look for causes. The only things I can think of are the regulator or the stator. I tested the old regulator and when I disconnected the stator plug from the regulator and checked it with a volt meter it was showing positive votage from the regulator (where the stator would normally plug in). So replaced it but still having the issue and was hoping it wasn't the stator, but not sure where else to check. As well would hate to change out the stator only to find that the issue still remains so looking for ways to test my system to get a better idea of what is wrong.

Mike

 

Chances are it's not the stator. If it is charging the stator and rotor are ok, voltage is controlled by the regulator so if you changed that, I'm a bit lost. Like the other poster stated you have to check the charging voltage with a multimeter.

 

You need to check alternator output against factory figures, each lead of the alternator is checked singly and there is a figure range per 1000 rpm.

If that is within tolerance then you need to check what your regulator is chucking out. You can do this with a voltmeter across the battery and it should max out at 14.85

 

Thanks for the input... I tried checking the old regulator based on the post in the electrical section here and it stated if any voltage was found in the pins on the regulator where the stator plug attaches then the regulator is broke. I had 11.53 on each of the pins. So, I replaced the regulator with a brand new one. I could see one regulator failing but for the 2d one to be bad right out of the box seems hard to believe. I am thinking that if it is the regulator that keeps failing something else is the cause and just trying to figure out what could burn out a regulator? It seems like there are only 2 basic parts... the alternator that generates the charge and the regulator... if it isn't the regulator then it has to be the alternator... but I'm not an electrician so...

I guess I may be forced to bring it to the dealership to figure it out.

 

I would verify that the new regulator is actually regulating voltage at the battery when running. It should float on and off between the specified 14.5 or whatever service manual states. If it does cut off and on at appropriate voltage levels, I would start looking for a loose ground and electrical grease all connectors. You may have some minor resistance within your harness that is tripping a code.

One thing for sure is if the stator is puttin out voltage its ok, that is its only job. from there the regulator takes over. I would also verfiy that each regulator tests out to service manual specs. If they do BOTH test fine then you know to look at the connections within the harness and grounds.

When checking grounds use a multimeter at the ACTUAL connector as I have had frame earth connectors lose conductivity and give me fits even though the actual contact bolt verified a ground. To cover all bases you can also check resistance numbers within the stator according to service manual specs. However I believe that this is redundant if the bike is overcharging.

Be sure and post results......and fix

 

Thanks, I will check out the wiring... I did put the new LED light a few days prior and it was real tight in the bucket. I will check to see if it shorted a wire in the back there... But appreciate the input. I just didn't think (or maybe it was hopeful thinking) it was the stator. I would rather hunt down a short in some wire then pull the stator