Handlebar question
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: eastern north carolina
Handlebar question
Here is the deal. I have a set of Todd's Cycles Fatbob bars mounted with LA Choppers Risers, but there is a small problem. The bars are not knurled so they will move a bit. They tend to come back towards me and I just push them back forward to where I want them. It takes a little force to move them, they are not just free flowing everywhere. I have tightened the risers down as much as I dare without busting something. However, this is getting to be a little tiresome. Any (easy) solutions??
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Handlebars
Try wrapping them in adhesive tape and then dusting the tape with rosin. I don't know if it will work but it's worth a try.
Also there is a stretchy electrical tape that sticks to itself that might also work.
If all else fails, you can take them to a machine shop and have them knurled.
Make sure everything is SECURE before leaving the garage.
Also there is a stretchy electrical tape that sticks to itself that might also work.
If all else fails, you can take them to a machine shop and have them knurled.
Make sure everything is SECURE before leaving the garage.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Tke a piece of inner tube and wrap the bar with it where the riser clamps on. It might help to pary a quick coat of primerto the bars under the wrap then spray the wrap before clamping down. If you spray the primer make sure you clapm it down while still e wet. Also don't wrap it to thick or you will have a gap in the riser clamp.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
I've done the center punch knurling for similar problems, but someone else on this forum suggested cutting a beer can to make little shims to make the clamp tighter. I believe he just cut pieces for the bottom clamps.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
Another thing that you could try is Locktite green 290 or Permatex's similar geen 29000. They are wicking, so you just apply them after cinching the clamps down, just put it in the clamping areas and it will wick into the clamping surfaces.
I haven't tried it for your particular purpose, but I did use it on my single point mounted floorboards that had two shiney chrome surfaces that mated and were held together with a single bolt. No matter how much I tightened them they still rotated when I put too much foot pressure on the boards.
I cleaned and roughed up the surfaces a bit with emery cloth, assembled and applied the wicking Locktite.
I haven't tried it for your particular purpose, but I did use it on my single point mounted floorboards that had two shiney chrome surfaces that mated and were held together with a single bolt. No matter how much I tightened them they still rotated when I put too much foot pressure on the boards.
I cleaned and roughed up the surfaces a bit with emery cloth, assembled and applied the wicking Locktite.
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 24
From: colorado springs
here's my 2 cents. when i was younger and used to ride bmx freestyle bikes. the neck and handle bars sometimes stripped. i would put 2 pennies between the neck and handle bars. the copper bends and flttens out, and the texture on both sides gives a little grip to the metal. ive never done it for motorcyle handle bars. but the principal is the same, and it only costs 2 cents.
mark your bars (position) then take them off and drill a small hole in one side of your risers (sized for your ball bearing) and then place a small ball bearing in the top of the risers, bolt them back up all done, easy, it will not move then.
Last edited by ==ShaDoW==; Apr 21, 2011 at 01:18 AM. Reason: typo