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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Should I slide the tubes up a little in the triple trees? I took a measurement today and they are a little long already. They are supposed to protrude 1/2" from the top triple tree to the top of the fork cap according to the service manual. Mine are about 3/8". I'm taking the back down a little over an inch, but would like to preserve the rake/trail so I was thinking of dropping the front a little. Anyone done this?
There"s a fork lowering kit buy Progressive, It's basically shorter springs that replace the existing springs. I'm not sure what Your talking about, you can't move your forks in the trees.
Yes you can, and the concept isn't that complicated. You have two triple trees that hold the fork tubes in place using pinch bolts and a cut in the outer tree. With the weight of the front tire lifted and supported you loosen the triple tree bolts holding the fork tubes in place and then move the forks up or down depending on desired amount of lift or drop. The hard part is the tubes have been in place since the bike was built at the factory so they may not want to budge without some serious muscle. There is no magical device on the outside of the tube or the inside of the tree that permanently locks the tubes at the stock height.
WGJC I haven't done it on a Dyna but I have done it on a Triumph and rode it with no worries for 2 years like that. If you lower the rear an inch you can lower the front tubes the same amount so long as their no interference created by anything else on the front end.
The reason people go with drop springs is they are stiffer but shorter so you get the same effect as stock suspension, probably better being an upgrade item, and you balance ride height front and rear. Changing the height of the tubes within the trees does not affect the suspension stiffness and is essentially just a frame drop as your lowering the rear of the frame already and by changing the tube height within the trees your lowering the front of the frame (ideally to match exactly the same distance as rear) and not actually changing any of the dynamics of the front suspension. So your bike will sit lower in the front but will not handle any better or worse if you've done your measuring properly. The biggest concern is making sure torque specs are followed and that you are precise in measuring the tubes on either side so they sit at the same height and are not off on one side or the other. Too much offset front to rear or side to side causes problems that have to be compensated for regardless of how you get the drop or raise results and is usually the cause of sudden appearance of wobble after a lift or drop. Your dealer can likely do it for you if your not sure about doing it but you may get the canned answer of changing stock height voids whatever.
When I put 11 1/2" 440 shocks on my SB, I raised the fork tubes another 1/2" for a total of 3/4"(I already had the forks raised to 1/2" with the stock 12" shocks) to lower the front end in proportion to the rear. I also had the OEM fork oil changed to the SE HD oil to reduce front end dive on heavy braking and bottoming on bumps/rough pavement.
It handles great with no issues at all with this set up.
I did buy the progressive front springs for my sporty, and really didn't notice a difference in handling or ride quality, that's why I was X ing that one out for this bike. Changing the fork oil to heavy made the most improvement.
I lowered my tubes by 3/8th of an inch and this solved my trail. It's free and works well up to 118mph, not sure over that speed as I have no reason to be going that fast on the streets.
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