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So i just recently bought a 2005 Superglide and i went out for the first time and i lost power. I got it back to my garage and i was looking at the bike and i brew the 40 amp fuse int he fise box. I kept trying new ones and they would just fry. So i figured i have a short in the wiring somewhere. Does anybody have any ideas how to find where the short may be or has anyone experienced this?
Finding a short is a process of elimination. First check the battery cables at the battery and the ground connection. If you're blowing the main fuse I would look for a battery cable that is grounding against the frame somewhere.
If you recently did any work or mods that's a good place to start.
Maybe someone will chime in who had the same experience.
What nevil said is good info, let me add...
To start troubleshooting you need to first inspect all wiring you can see, then unplug ALL connectors like the ones in the frame up front for the bars and lights, the rear lights, the ECM, etc.
Once you have everything unplugged try a new fuse. If the fuse hold start plugging things in until it blows, then you will know where to look for the problem.
If the fuse blows right away, the issue is in the main harness. You need to check each wire, this is unlikely though as it is most likely in one of the items you unplugged.
The battery cables aren't fused so no need to check them. Use a multi meter to check all circuits that are hot when you switch on, checking all modifications FIRST.
The battery cables aren't fused so no need to check them. Use a multi meter to check all circuits that are hot when you switch on, checking all modifications FIRST.
Not exactly true, while they do not directly go to the fuse from the battery, it most certainly is protected by the main fuse before going to the rest of the bike. The Positive cable runs from the battery to the starter solenoid and then to the main fuse.
So a short on the main anywhere between the battery and that fuse will most certainly short that fuse.
The diagram is useful. The battery cables are clearly not fused, power going directly to the starter and to the fuse block w/ no protection. Though all else is protected by the 40amp maxi fuse.
The diagram is useful. The battery cables are clearly not fused, power going directly to the starter and to the fuse block w/ no protection. Though all else is protected by the 40amp maxi fuse.
So you are trying to tell me that if you shorted the positive battery terminal to ground/frame with the key on, it would never blow the main fuse?
Follow the power from the battery, to the starter, to the fuse holder. Remove the fuse. There is NO protection to the circuit from the battery TO the fuse holder. Put the fuse back in. There is STILL no protection to the circuit from the battery to the fuse holder.
I'm willing to try explaining this in a different way, if you truly don't get it.
Follow the power from the battery, to the starter, to the fuse holder. Remove the fuse. There is NO protection to the circuit from the battery TO the fuse holder. Put the fuse back in. There is STILL no protection to the circuit from the battery to the fuse holder.
I'm willing to try explaining this in a different way, if you truly don't get it.
You do not get it, I have only been a Journeyman electrician for 25+ years, so save your silly remarks, you are flat wrong if you do not think the main can short that fuse.
After 25 years, if you don't know the difference between a protected circuit and a non-protected circuit, I concede that it's likely you won't be convinced by any explanation from me. But for everyone else, the non-protected circuit is EVERYTHING between the main fuse and battery, especially the battery cables.
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