Bike Alignment
Hey folks,
Has anyone ever checked the alignment on their bike?
The manual gives a pretty clear description of the procedure but I was wondering if anyone's done it and has some tips.
One question is, how do I get at the stabilizer link jam nut just above the motor? I have the tank off right now and it still looks hard to get at. It there a tool that'll get me in there?
The book also says I have to have the exhaust in place to perform this procedure. Does that mean I have to have the tank on too?
It also talk about having the bike perfectly level. I check the stand I have it on and it is not perfectly level. I was thinking just shim the one side of the frame on the stand to achieve this as it's not too far off. Thoughts on that?
Once it's level it talks about using an inclinometer to check the brake discs for vertical. They need to ultimately be within one degree of each other. I guess I won't be able to just use a level on that huh?
Thanks for any input...
Ray
Has anyone ever checked the alignment on their bike?
The manual gives a pretty clear description of the procedure but I was wondering if anyone's done it and has some tips.
One question is, how do I get at the stabilizer link jam nut just above the motor? I have the tank off right now and it still looks hard to get at. It there a tool that'll get me in there?
The book also says I have to have the exhaust in place to perform this procedure. Does that mean I have to have the tank on too?
It also talk about having the bike perfectly level. I check the stand I have it on and it is not perfectly level. I was thinking just shim the one side of the frame on the stand to achieve this as it's not too far off. Thoughts on that?
Once it's level it talks about using an inclinometer to check the brake discs for vertical. They need to ultimately be within one degree of each other. I guess I won't be able to just use a level on that huh?
Thanks for any input...
Ray
OK, when I ride the bike it always seems to want to naturally lean to the right. Forget about road crown and conditions as I've been paying attention to all that since I've owned the bike and it wants to lean.
I have come to the conclusion that the rear axle is in proper adjustment on the swing arm. I have also leveled the bike best I can by rolling the stand onto shims (a very small amount was needed) until the two cross bars the bikes frame sits on are level. I also checked the frame itself by placing the level on the flat plate under the seat that's attached to the top tube in the front and the struts at the rear which should be level if the bike is level (in my opinion).
I then tied a string to the handlebars on both sides then around something on the back of the bike to hold the position I set it at. That position is set by measuring constant points on the bike and the forks and plumbing the front rotor to come to the conclusion the forks are straight.
With the bike level, the forks straight and the front rotor plumb I checked the rear rotor for plumb and nope, it's off quite a bit.
Over the few years I've owned the bike (bought it new in late '08) I've always felt the rear wheel looked a bit crooked whether it be on the ground or on the jack. It always looks like it's cocked just a bit counter-clockwise. Now the level seems to show the same thing.
If the rear wheel is off (meaning the swing arm is off, meaning the motor is out of adjustment per the stabilizer it's attached to) would this not cause the bike to want to lean a bit?
This is what I'm coming up with based on some facts and some of my opinion. I'm hoping some of you can read this and look at the pics and give it some thought, maybe talk to someone you know who's good at this kind of thing and let them read it, whatever...
In the mean time (in between time) I'm going to try and adjust the motor a bit and see what it does.
Thanks AGAIN!
Ray
I have come to the conclusion that the rear axle is in proper adjustment on the swing arm. I have also leveled the bike best I can by rolling the stand onto shims (a very small amount was needed) until the two cross bars the bikes frame sits on are level. I also checked the frame itself by placing the level on the flat plate under the seat that's attached to the top tube in the front and the struts at the rear which should be level if the bike is level (in my opinion).
I then tied a string to the handlebars on both sides then around something on the back of the bike to hold the position I set it at. That position is set by measuring constant points on the bike and the forks and plumbing the front rotor to come to the conclusion the forks are straight.
With the bike level, the forks straight and the front rotor plumb I checked the rear rotor for plumb and nope, it's off quite a bit.
Over the few years I've owned the bike (bought it new in late '08) I've always felt the rear wheel looked a bit crooked whether it be on the ground or on the jack. It always looks like it's cocked just a bit counter-clockwise. Now the level seems to show the same thing.
If the rear wheel is off (meaning the swing arm is off, meaning the motor is out of adjustment per the stabilizer it's attached to) would this not cause the bike to want to lean a bit?
This is what I'm coming up with based on some facts and some of my opinion. I'm hoping some of you can read this and look at the pics and give it some thought, maybe talk to someone you know who's good at this kind of thing and let them read it, whatever...
In the mean time (in between time) I'm going to try and adjust the motor a bit and see what it does.
Thanks AGAIN!
Ray
Not an expert on the alignment process, I have to do mine in the near future.
Things to check first:
Is the swing arm twisted or is it level too? (equal shock preload?)
Is the axle straight? (there is some play when tightening)
I just replaced my rims and noticed a slight slant in the axle. I loosened the axle lowered the bike so that there was sufficient weight on the axle to force it to the top of the "play". The weight of the bike did not allow the tightening of the nut to twist the axle. It was level after that.
The last thing other than the mounts is your laced rims. If the spokes are not evenly torqued, your rim will twist, but this will not make the rotor or the pulley slant.
Things to check first:
Is the swing arm twisted or is it level too? (equal shock preload?)
Is the axle straight? (there is some play when tightening)
I just replaced my rims and noticed a slight slant in the axle. I loosened the axle lowered the bike so that there was sufficient weight on the axle to force it to the top of the "play". The weight of the bike did not allow the tightening of the nut to twist the axle. It was level after that.
The last thing other than the mounts is your laced rims. If the spokes are not evenly torqued, your rim will twist, but this will not make the rotor or the pulley slant.
Last edited by Gommee; Jul 25, 2012 at 11:53 AM. Reason: addition
That was one of the first things I checked when I got the bike. I'm 240 so I had to load it up a bit...lol
That being said, I just checked again for good measure, still good...
Thanks though...
Ray
Trending Topics
Not an expert on the alignment process, I have to do mine in the near future.
Things to check first:
Is the swing arm twisted or is it level too? (equal shock preload?)
Is the axle straight? (there is some play when tightening)
I just replaced my rims and noticed a slight slant in the axle. I loosened the axle lowered the bike so that there was sufficient weight on the axle to force it to the top of the "play". The weight of the bike did not allow the tightening of the nut to twist the axle. It was level after that.
The last thing other than the mounts is your laced rims. If the spokes are not evenly torqued, your rim will twist, but this will not make the rotor or the pulley slant.
Things to check first:
Is the swing arm twisted or is it level too? (equal shock preload?)
Is the axle straight? (there is some play when tightening)
I just replaced my rims and noticed a slight slant in the axle. I loosened the axle lowered the bike so that there was sufficient weight on the axle to force it to the top of the "play". The weight of the bike did not allow the tightening of the nut to twist the axle. It was level after that.
The last thing other than the mounts is your laced rims. If the spokes are not evenly torqued, your rim will twist, but this will not make the rotor or the pulley slant.
I am going with, the axle's straight at this point. It's never been off the bike (though that doesn't mean anything).
I just adjusted the stabilizer the motor's attached to and it helped. The wheel now looks much straighter. That being said, the rotor is still off some when the level is put on it but it made a difference.
A ride will tell...which I can't do at the moment cause my tank is off cause I just did my cams and I'm not even sure I should be stating it without a tune (though they'd have to start it to tune it...lol)
As far as settling the motor in the mounts, the manual says to loosen ALL the mounting bolts on the engine isolators and starts the engine for 5 seconds.
When it says 'ALL' does that mean just the bolts attaching the mounts to the motor or the bolts attaching the mounts to the frame also?
I guess now asking it sounds like a dumb question but I'm gonna let it fly anyway.
Thanks...
When it says 'ALL' does that mean just the bolts attaching the mounts to the motor or the bolts attaching the mounts to the frame also?
I guess now asking it sounds like a dumb question but I'm gonna let it fly anyway.
Thanks...
Last edited by ramu3527; Jul 25, 2012 at 07:14 PM.







