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See, my problem is i overthink things. I'm sure this works great, but how does it adjust? I see a threaded barrel with a flat to get a wrench on. You still have to remove one of the heim joint bolts, right? Otherwise turning the barrel will simply move it higher on one side, and simultaneously lower on the other, right?
In essence the same as you have to do with the stock link. If so, what does this buy you?
One of the ends is reverse thread, so you don't need to remove either end (and you aren't locked into increments of a half turn). Loosen the jam nuts, turn the center. The link gets longer or shorter. If you magnify one of the pictures in the eBay listing, you can actually see that each end is threaded in opposite directions.
One of the ends is reverse thread, so you don't need to remove either end (and you aren't locked into increments of a half turn). Loosen the jam nuts, turn the center. The link gets longer or shorter. If you magnify one of the pictures in the eBay listing, you can actually see that each end is threaded in opposite directions.
I made a custom stainless turnbuckle and used stainless rod ends with Teflon races. As Tarik said, the generic alternator link works but some report it being slightly long and the ball ends aren't great. The upgrade is totally optional.
I'm going from memory here, so somebody fact check me...
3/8-24 male rod ends. One LH thread. One RH thread. Midwest Control Products STM-6 & STML-6. Might also want to add the rubber seals (4 pcs) to keep junk out of the joints: RS375
Midwest is just one of countless sources for rod ends (aka, rose joint, heim joint, spherical bearing, etc) Jegs, Summit Racing, Speedway, MSC, McMaster-Carr, Grainger, eBay, Amazon, etc. I just use Midwest because they're close, have a good selection, and reasonable price per quality.
I just ordered the Amazon kit and the two MCP heim joints. I couldn't find the seals for that size end, but I don't think it will get that bad up there...
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