jesus, seems everything I pull off this bike has 'permanent' lock-tite on the bolts
was going to take off the belt guard and do a little modding/painting of it but the damn hex bolt connected to the passenger peg mount was tighter than...well, use your imagination
Seems most of the bolts are extremely soft metal as well and wallow out/strip out very easily. After a few busted knuckles and blood/sweat dripping all over my bike I said screw it. Took the passenger peg mount off but couldn't finagle the belt cover/peg mount out without undoing the shock so I'm done messing with it for today
Something that simple shouldn't be such a PITA to remove
Just a tad sick of these damn hex/torx bolts

/rant

 

I went through that same thing about a month ago, I finally gouged that thing outta there, and that belt guard is not going back on.

 

you just drill it out? ****ing thing was driving me nuts. I was planning on drilling it out if I had to, once I got the cover/peg mount off but old back injuries are plaguing me lately and I was beyond fed up with it so I'll do it another day.

 

Just mashed that bit with the screwdriver I had until it broke free. It was completely stripped, I basically gouged the metal until I got enough grip on it. It sucked. Had the same thing happen to the 3 bolts in the air cleaner. I must have over torqued them when I installed the new cleaner. I had to drill those out.....

 

all that lock-tite is the only thing that keeps the bike held together. been seeing harleys drop parts for years that vibrated off because no lock-tite.

 

Aviation taught me that crap is going to happen and it is going to cost. Reading this forum just confirms that this is true for motorcycles as well. I have had many fasteners break or strip out over the years and the odds are usually 50/50 on an easy fix. Hope you git 'er fixed up and back on the road soon.

 

I damn near stripped that same bolt when I was installing new swingarm bag. I also thought it felt a bit soft and prone to wallowing out.

 

Not sure if it would apply in this application but I've encountered blue loctite in the past and have found that sometimes applying heat to the bolt before trying to remove it can help loosen the stuff up. Like put a soldering iron on it for a bit then try to back it out. Of course, you'd have to take care not to use this method in a place where you might mess up paint, etc. Just a suggestion.

 

Agreed, heat to loosen Lock-Tite

After you strip the head, you can cut a slot in the head for a screw driver with a hack saw blade or die grinder with a cutoff wheel. If you do not have the room, try to get a hold of the head outside diameter with a good pair of vise grips. IF that doesn't work, do you know a friend with a welder? Tpe off all around the area to protect paint and chrome. stick a junk allen wrench in the stripped hole and tack weld in place. Let everything thoroughly cool becaus the heated bolt is now swelled inside the tapped hole. When cool remove screw and replace with new.

 

I hear ya! I've been replacing them with conventional (external) hex heads, or better quality socket heads as I have them out.

The chrome quality pretty much sucks too. I've had some rust the first time I was out in rain for more than 12 hours.

If your hardware store has a "Hillman" fastener assortment which includes chromed fasteners, all the chromed hex head are supposed to be grade 5 or better, and all the chromed socket heads are supposed to be grade 8 or better. That's according to Hillman. (called them from the hardware store, because it's not marked on the display or the fasteners, and I needed to know)