I've drilled the heads off several stuck bolts/screws, take off the cover, bracket, whatever, and use vise grips on the exposed section of bolt. Having the head off also reduces some of the "stretch" pressure on the threads, though it won't help loctite or rust much. Worst case scenerio, I've drilled them out and re-tapped for a larger size, but you don't always have that option. I never have problems with a screw I put in; I use either the right grade of loctite (blue or red, never green) or anti seize, depending on the useage and size - no use using loctite on hot engine parts, the heat will soften it anyway. I often coat unthreaded shanks of a bolt with anti seize even when I use loctite on the threads, too, to prevent them rusting in. One of the best ways to avoid future problems is using a torque wrench; few people have a "calibrated" arm, and most that think they do over tighten the crap out of everything. Even a torque wrench is a little vague on actual tightness; a variety of things like temperature, lubrication, quality of thread cutting, can affect the actual torque, and in some highly critical applications, tools to actually measure bolt stretch are used instead of torque wrenches - bolt stretch is a more accurate measure of tightness. I've also replaced some of the Harley hardware with grade 8 bolts, especially when there's a nut instead of being threaded into aluminum. Stainless may look pretty, but it's also pretty weak; there are up to grade 5 or 6 stainless, but you usually won't find them in a hardware store, just soft junk.