Excellent prognosis. thanx
maybe it is something in the primary ?
I think I got a gasket that I got to replace there anyway and I see a little bit of oil tripping I'll just open it up and not sure what I'm looking for but I'll look in my manuel
I had the primary looked a year ago had the stator replaced too
cheers



QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;17168324]Have you removed the primary cover and inspected the mechanical components?

Remember, you must disconnect the battery before removing the cover.

Note: it is not a short..

Here is my personal theory on starter run on:

Starter Run On

When you push the starter button, the coil around the starter solenoid plunger is energized, which causes the plunger to extend, engaging the pinion gear with the ring gear on the clutch, and at the same time making electrical contact to energize the starter motor.

When you release the button, it cuts the power to the solenoid coil, and the plunger retracts, which disengages the gears and also opens the circuit between the starter and the battery.

When you have nice clean connections, mechanical components in good working order and a good strong battery this works as designed, the engine spins over at a good speed, and each time the pistons go past the compression stroke the friction between the pinion gear and the starter ring gear decreases, so that the pinion gear can retract.

Now throw poor electrical connections, weak battery, misaligned or worn mechanical parts into the mix, and what happens is the starter spins the engine slow, and the friction between the two gears stays constant, so the pinion gear cannot retract. This keeps the starter engaged, because the pinion gear and the electrical contacts to the starter are on the same shaft.

This does not happen on a modern starter configuration, because the plunger shaft and the pinion gear are not locked together, so when the power to the starter solenoid plunger is interrupted, the shaft that has the electrical contacts can retract, even if the gears are stuck together. Once this electrical connection is interrupted, the starter motor is de-energized, and the starter stops, and once that happens, the friction holding the gears together decreases, and the pinion gear will retract away from the ring gear.[/QUOTE]

 

thanx nice job well done
will try checking primary side
cheers


QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;17168324]Have you removed the primary cover and inspected the mechanical



components?

Remember, you must disconnect the battery before removing the cover.

Note: it is not a short..

Here is my personal theory on starter run on:

Starter Run On

When you push the starter button, the coil around the starter solenoid plunger is energized, which causes the plunger to extend, engaging the pinion gear with the ring gear on the clutch, and at the same time making electrical contact to energize the starter motor.

When you release the button, it cuts the power to the solenoid coil, and the plunger retracts, which disengages the gears and also opens the circuit between the starter and the battery.

When you have nice clean connections, mechanical components in good working order and a good strong battery this works as designed, the engine spins over at a good speed, and each time the pistons go past the compression stroke the friction between the pinion gear and the starter ring gear decreases, so that the pinion gear can retract.

Now throw poor electrical connections, weak battery, misaligned or worn mechanical parts into the mix, and what happens is the starter spins the engine slow, and the friction between the two gears stays constant, so the pinion gear cannot retract. This keeps the starter engaged, because the pinion gear and the electrical contacts to the starter are on the same shaft.

This does not happen on a modern starter configuration, because the plunger shaft and the pinion gear are not locked together, so when the power to the starter solenoid plunger is interrupted, the shaft that has the electrical contacts can retract, even if the gears are stuck together. Once this electrical connection is interrupted, the starter motor is de-energized, and the starter stops, and once that happens, the friction holding the gears together decreases, and the pinion gear will retract away from the ring gear.[/QUOTE]

 

I can't tell if this threads working it's raining out here thank you very much I'll check out the primary
no I'm not watching ****

 

thanks brother is there any specific mechanical Parts I need to check in primary? I have an 87 fxr


QUOTE=dannybam;17168658]thanx nice job well done
will try checking primary side
cheers


QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;17168324]Have you removed the primary cover and inspected the mechanical



components?

Remember, you must disconnect the battery before removing the cover.

Note: it is not a short..

Here is my personal theory on starter run on:

Starter Run On

When you push the starter button, the coil around the starter solenoid plunger is energized, which causes the plunger to extend, engaging the pinion gear with the ring gear on the clutch, and at the same time making electrical contact to energize the starter motor.

When you release the button, it cuts the power to the solenoid coil, and the plunger retracts, which disengages the gears and also opens the circuit between the starter and the battery.

When you have nice clean connections, mechanical components in good working order and a good strong battery this works as designed, the engine spins over at a good speed, and each time the pistons go past the compression stroke the friction between the pinion gear and the starter ring gear decreases, so that the pinion gear can retract.

Now throw poor electrical connections, weak battery, misaligned or worn mechanical parts into the mix, and what happens is the starter spins the engine slow, and the friction between the two gears stays constant, so the pinion gear cannot retract. This keeps the starter engaged, because the pinion gear and the electrical contacts to the starter are on the same shaft.

This does not happen on a modern starter configuration, because the plunger shaft and the pinion gear are not locked together, so when the power to the starter solenoid plunger is interrupted, the shaft that has the electrical contacts can retract, even if the gears are stuck together. Once this electrical connection is interrupted, the starter motor is de-energized, and the starter stops, and once that happens, the friction holding the gears together decreases, and the pinion gear will retract away from the ring gear.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

 

Having a similar issue on my '86 FXRS. I just read through the entire thread, so bare with me if I missed something. I've recently done a TON of work to my bike, including a lot of electrical work, and had a local indy do a lot of work too (mostly fix what i messed up and then some). I'll do my best to list recent changes and improvements below. Once the Start switch is engaged, the bike will keep trying to turn over until the battery dies, even with the ignition off, and the kill switch engaged. It started up on me the other day and ran, but when i tried to kill it, it wouldn't turn off. List of maintenance and modifications done in the last ~three months:

• Brand new Deca battery - two weeks old. Wore the positive terminal all the way down on the old one.
• Two starters tried (Spyke high torque and the one that came with the bike when i got it. Could be stock.) Same problem with both.
• Solenoid - Not OEM. Was on during rewire and bad batteries. XL on order. Mechanic thinks this is the issue, and i do too after reading this thread.
• Bendix - was definitely a problem before. Had broken free from spindle and bike wouldnt start at all.
• Ignition Module
• Starter relay, plugs, and cables - also getting new relay to try
• ALL new circuit breakers
• LED head and tail light added
• Load regulator for lights
• Wiring update - bike sat for 10 years before i got it; since past owner died. He did a bunch of weird **** with the wiring, which basically left a bunch of wires cut and uncapped, a bunch of stuff hot that shouldn't have been, and the stock wiring schematic useless. Mechanic combed through bike to try to get it all and fixed a lot of stuff, including short in high-beam.
• New control wires for new bars/riser set up

I've had the bike for two years and barely put 3,000 miles on it. It's spent the whole summer on the lift, and my wife and friends think i am crazy for keeping it, but i am SO CLOSE. Any ideas?

 

I think my bike had a short which was drain the battery which causes the starter to keep spinning if the bike doesn't start up immediately the battery goes low on voltage in the starter keeps spinning it's f****** weird I checked and found a bad wire I checked the voltage on the voltameter for the battery and see if it's charging little bikes cold the battery should be about 12:50

when you start it up put the battery voltage reader on the battery should read about 13 to 14 to see if it's charging properly I was told it also might be in the ignition switch but I'm not sure about that and I don't know what else to do haven't had that problem in awhile it's been starting okay but I always check the battery for 12.50 thanks man hope anybody else knows any of this stuff