Engine Identification
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
That Front Head pn: 18901-89, is probably a casting number, not the finished head part number. If it is cast into the head, not stamped or cut/engraved, that will confirm that. It's quite likely the heads are part of a SE stage 4 tuning kit, along with the bigger carb, tuner and probably new cams and big-bore kit.
It would help a lot if you can find that missing build sheet!
It would help a lot if you can find that missing build sheet!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
Hell ya!
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: USA
Been down this road with a few of my motors. My balancer sprocket spun 25* and it didn't vibrate much. First thing I would do assuming you eliminated all primary drive issues and the tranny is good I would check the runout on the crank. After that I would pull the heads and check the rods for a bad bearing. My Darkhorse crank took a **** on my about 6 months ago. Also look at S&S crank. If the crank is bad you're almost at the $$$ of a S&S 124 kit. You cant beat having a Timken bearing on the crank. One time I took my whole motor apart because of a bad vibration only to find nothing wrong. It was a worn out tranny. Sorry bud. Your turn in the barrel.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
I herd suddenly dropping gears is hard on the drive sprocket. One thing you have to remember. For every failure like that there are thousands with no issues at all. I blame it on being the first run and early production 07.
I have a screamin eagle engine on my bike and I have severe engine vibration.
For all those engine genius folks I need some help.
I wanted to do a complete breakdown and replace all needed seal and gaskets
And necessary parts. The engine has 60000 on it and the build was done at
32000 miles. All help would be appreciated.i lost the build sheet.
2001 fxstd
For all those engine genius folks I need some help.
I wanted to do a complete breakdown and replace all needed seal and gaskets
And necessary parts. The engine has 60000 on it and the build was done at
32000 miles. All help would be appreciated.i lost the build sheet.
2001 fxstd
That year was known for a broken/spinning balancer drive gear resulting in out of phase balancers. A sure tell tale is if the coil mount or fuel tank tabs crack. Many of the gears broke right at the timing mark.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
Ok
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 260
Likes: 21
From: Tempe, AZ
Ok
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
I had the crank trued balanced lightened and welded also timken upgrade.
I now have 570g cams with gear drive. The crank runout is now .001.
The main problem was the crank and the compensator had to be replaced. The bell for the stater was also chewed up and I replaced that as well.
I now have 570g cams with gear drive. The crank runout is now .001.
The main problem was the crank and the compensator had to be replaced. The bell for the stater was also chewed up and I replaced that as well.