So I've been searching through the forums and learned quite a bit but couldn't find a direct answer to my question.

I have a 2005 883xl that I am turning into a flat track racer. I have someone with an S&S 1250 kit they can sell me pretty cheap but I need 1200 heads first. Looking through shops that people in the forums support the head work is like $600-$1000+

I looked on eBay and found some 1200 heads for cheap but they only fit up to 2003 models as listed. Will they fit my bike? Can I just use 1200 heads that come off any evo motor? Do I need to get them from the specifically rubber mounted evo engines?

Also, what would be the advantage of getting my heads done vs buying used heads at 1/3 of the price if any?

Thanks!

 

get your heads done,,,it's a cheat way to get more comp when you step up to 1200,,,,
make sure you know the rules for the class you are going to be racing in, most of the time there are some kind of limitations,,,in 04 the heads and cylinders got bigger fins, so sometimes that creates an issue depending on what other parts you plan on using,,,
if you are not racing, just making the bike a race rep that you plan to ride on the street, there's a lot you can do, just depends on how much work you want to do and how you want to spend,,,let us know your actual plans then we can chime in more.
m

 

This bike is race/off road only. I have a '14 Fatbob for daily driving and trips. I figure to do the heads now before I dive into stuff so that I don't have to spend double the money and swap everything later. I'm not rushed on this build because I have my other bike so I want to do everything right but I also don't want to spend money where I don't need to. What exactly do I gain from having my heads done vs just picking up some 1200 heads and bolting on? The fins shouldn't matter because the 1250 kits come with new jugs anyways, right?

 

what are your race class rules? that is going to determine a lot!!
m
ported 883 heads run very well, high port velocity, small combustion chamber,,good set up for power,,,might need special length valves, but they are easy to get. just changing to 1200 flat-top pistons will get you 10-1,10-2 compression. if the heads are done well, with the correct cam, exhasut and carb choice, mid 90's hp is achieveable,,,,mine did 92/88 before i stroked it. what are your rules? this will post the biggest limitations on your parts choices.
m

 

Just looking at hooligan racing/dirt jumping for now so its really just don't modify the frame and you're all good to go.

Current thoughts:

1st Round--

Head worked to 1200 (Hammer)
1200-1250 Large fin kit (Hammer)
S&S Teardrop Intake
Twintec Ignition
Drag Specialties Plugs
Dynatec Wires

2nd Round --

Cone Engineering Exhaust

3rd Round--

Reaper 580 XL Cams
Econo Beehive Spring Kit
HP+ Pushrods
HP+ Lifters

 

first round,,,heads and cylinders 10.5 to 1 or better, 42 mikuni with whatever a/c you like, twin tech ign(or anything else you like) dont worry about plugs or wires, none are proven to be all that much better than the other,,,,have the springs done with the headwork
all these things done in the bieginning will work with later upgrades. if you can afford to do the cams and lifters, do it at the same time, cam selection is a can of worms i'll not open up now, but i prefer the Jims Hydro solids to anything else,,,i also use adjustable pushrods, which can allow for some more outside the box cam selections,,,,pick a proven exhaust, the SuperTrap highmount xr750 style would probably work great for what you are describing and be tuneable in the future
m

 

Talk with Aaron or Dan at hammer performance, since they are doing the heads, and they can get you on the right cam. For the hooligan races. Might ask about their 1275 kit while your there. I did one of their kits and it ran very strong. Easy people to work with.

 

Andrews 6 or 8 cams.
Buell Thunderstorm castings as the platform prior to port work.
Supertrapp 2/1.
Hang on tightly.
Scott