Advice on do it yourself Evo top end rebuild?
Hello Everyone,
I have a 1998 Evo Wide glide with 130k miles that needs a top end rebuild. I'm planning on attempting myself and am looking for advice. I have a manual. I have replacement Axtell cylendars with preinstalled pistons. ..85CI. the heads i'll send out for whatever rebuild it needs. I would also like to check out the cam condition. It's got an Andrews EV27 with Screamin Eagle adjustable pushrods. Screamin Eagle slip on mufflers. I'm an HVAC Mechanic so I'm not unfamiliar with tools etc. My question is tips getting it apart/back together with timing set up correctly and pushrods adjusted correctly etc.
Any suggestions appreciated
I have a 1998 Evo Wide glide with 130k miles that needs a top end rebuild. I'm planning on attempting myself and am looking for advice. I have a manual. I have replacement Axtell cylendars with preinstalled pistons. ..85CI. the heads i'll send out for whatever rebuild it needs. I would also like to check out the cam condition. It's got an Andrews EV27 with Screamin Eagle adjustable pushrods. Screamin Eagle slip on mufflers. I'm an HVAC Mechanic so I'm not unfamiliar with tools etc. My question is tips getting it apart/back together with timing set up correctly and pushrods adjusted correctly etc.
Any suggestions appreciated
Some mild cylinder head work(our Stage I) and set the compression at 9.8, 9.9 cr for that EV-27, will complete that combo.
Inspect the lifters for loose rollers, as HD issued a bulletin to do so at 25,000.
If in question whatsoever, replace with a set of S&S lifters.
Inner cam bearing inspection/replacement at this time would also be wise.
Scott
Inspect the lifters for loose rollers, as HD issued a bulletin to do so at 25,000.
If in question whatsoever, replace with a set of S&S lifters.
Inner cam bearing inspection/replacement at this time would also be wise.
Scott
Check the lifters, if stock just change them. I would go back to the stock fixed push rods. Everything is apart, they just drop in from the top and one less thing to mess with, my opinion others will vary.
The biggest PITA is the tools you'll need to buy that you'll never use again. And buying ALL the parts you MIGHT
need incase they're worn and you weren't expecting to change but you might need once you get in there, so you're not
into the job then discover you need them and don't have them and now need to order them and wait for them to arrive.
Don't ask me how I know.
Ya, OCD
need incase they're worn and you weren't expecting to change but you might need once you get in there, so you're not
into the job then discover you need them and don't have them and now need to order them and wait for them to arrive.
Don't ask me how I know.
Ya, OCD
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Why would an aggressive lobe profile make any difference in regards to using an adjustable versus a non-adjustable pushrod?
The use of aggressive lobe cams over the last 25+ years, has taught us to load the lifter to .140"-.150" on a .200" travel plunger, via an adjustable pushrod, to help with quiet engine operation at full thermal expansion.
OEM fixed units do not allow that precision adjustment.
Scott
OEM fixed units do not allow that precision adjustment.
Scott
Last edited by Hillsidecycle.com; Dec 18, 2018 at 10:01 AM.
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