Might as well do the lifters, cheap insurance and you’re already in for more than a dime.

I used Feuling lifters with the 509 install although some posters said the world would end if I didn’t use S&S, primed them with a squirt can, they pumped right up and no issues whatsoever. Not shilling for them, just saying.

Pick a name brand and ride the damn thing.

 

You may already have purchased a cam set but, if not, take a hard look at the SE204 for your application. Intake closes a few degrees earlier, a bit more lift and more intake lift at TDC. As for idle sound, anyone that has run the SE204 cam will tell you that the lumpy hot rod idle is unmistakable; no doubt that the motor is cammed. IMHO, the SE 204 is an underrated and often overlooked option because it is an HD cam.

 

Thanks for everyone's help and djl, purchased all the stuff last night. I went with the Andrews 26 just in case I want to go big bore and higher compression in the future. May have to look into the 204 also 😁. Went with s&s quickees, Arlen Ness stage 1, and gonna rejet to 46 slow and 190 main, two washers under needle(not sure what's in it now haven't checked). Got all the special tools from heartland and cyco tensioners. Just have to go to Harley and get the orings for cam plate and oil pump. Will get the cam spacer kit from them if they have it as well. Couldn't find it online.

Unfortunately none of the Harley shops near me have the service manual for my bike so I'll have to dig into the forums for torque values and little stuff. Hopefully nothing important is missed!

 

You need the service manual. Digital versions are available, not as handy as paper in the garage but everything you need to know is in there.

 

At the final stages of this project. Took out the cams and this how the rear cam looks from the factory. Is this oring in the correct spot? I thought it went behind the thrust washer. I using stock Harley 34 tooth sprocket. Also what is best to clean the waxy corrosion inhibitor off?

 

O-ring is correct. When torqued, it is inside the bore of the spacer to center it.

 

Just changed the tensioners to the cycos. I noticed on the OEM that the pin holding the shoe on was peened so that it wouldn't turn. It was tight it the holes. I tried peening the heck out of the new pins but they still want to spin if you move the shoe up and down. Is this a problem? I think they are peened enough that they won't come out but I'm worried since the spin in the holes

 

As long as the shoe isn’t coming off the pin, you’re good.

 

Subscribed need to do mine next