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TC Softail Oil Pump Leaks

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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 01:57 PM
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Default TC Softail Oil Pump Leaks

I could use some advice.

I have an S&S oil pump and cam support plate installed on my 2017 Twin Cam Softail. With this current build, my oil tank will drain down significantly over a couple of days. This results in hard starts as the starter struggles to rotate the crank that is swimming in oil. The engine is a 117 at 11:1 compression. About 1,500 miles on the build.

I've taken the camchest apart to inspect and install a new oil pump o-ring. Everything looks good. The oil pump is aligned per the S&S instructions. The crank is straight (Darkhorse).

I'm at a loss for what to do to fix this. As is I'm not quite satisfied with the rate at which the oil tank is leaking down. I know Softail tanks are prone to drain but this seems excessive. I'm contemplating swapping the oil pump out for something like the Daytona.

Any suggestions???
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MRPHS
I could use some advice.

I have an S&S oil pump and cam support plate installed on my 2017 Twin Cam Softail. With this current build, my oil tank will drain down significantly over a couple of days. This results in hard starts as the starter struggles to rotate the crank that is swimming in oil. The engine is a 117 at 11:1 compression. About 1,500 miles on the build.

I've taken the camchest apart to inspect and install a new oil pump o-ring. Everything looks good. The oil pump is aligned per the S&S instructions. The crank is straight (Darkhorse).

I'm at a loss for what to do to fix this. As is I'm not quite satisfied with the rate at which the oil tank is leaking down. I know Softail tanks are prone to drain but this seems excessive. I'm contemplating swapping the oil pump out for something like the Daytona.

Any suggestions???
On a softail you are going to have this issue.. The problem stems from the SnS pump having to deal with side play in the the feed pump. You can try and cut the side play to something less by trimming the oil pump body but you may still have issues with gerotor clearance allowing oil to leak into the motor. IMO the best way to go is the stock oil pump or some SE pump that uses the to flat plates and a wavy washer to clamp the pump rotors. .

Oh Replacing the oil pump O ring only helps with scavenging when the motor is running, not sitting.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2022 | 09:17 AM
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Max how much clearance would you recommend leaving between the S&S pump body and the gerotors? If I take it apart again I'm more likely to just swap the pump out but this is an interesting idea. Would one trim all three body sections?

Replacing the oil pump o-ring was a long shot. I was hoping it was slightly nicked and leaking a bit so it would be an easy fix.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2022 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MRPHS
Max how much clearance would you recommend leaving between the S&S pump body and the gerotors? If I take it apart again I'm more likely to just swap the pump out but this is an interesting idea. Would one trim all three body sections?

Replacing the oil pump o-ring was a long shot. I was hoping it was slightly nicked and leaking a bit so it would be an easy fix.
I don't own a TC softail so I don't know if my suggestion will work for sure.. I've done it on a Fueling pump in a Dyna and it seems to help with startup oil pressure as the oil tank is mounted below the pump. I set the side clearance to 0.002". You should only need to do the feed side pump.

Going to a pump that has spring loaded side plates would be better IMO.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2022 | 11:13 PM
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I have the same issue with my Dan Thayer pump and just deal with it. It's a far superior pump and the dual port scavenging ensures the crank is never swimming in oil. The stock pump leaves 6 to 8oz in there minimum. It also keeps a constant vacuum.
you could always pinch off the oil feec line while it's sitting. I know djl does this. Im going to put a shut off valve in mine I think.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Nov 15, 2022 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 03:39 PM
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60Gunner is your Softail a bear to start after sitting for a couple of days? I'm wondering if I might have a contributing issue like the starter wearing out. The battery is brand new. I've noticed when it's hard to start my digital gas gauge will go almost completely dim while the starter struggles to turn the engine over.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 04:45 PM
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Check all your wiring. Especially grounds/cables. I added a cable from.my battery to a starter bolt. Not as necessary as on the rubbermounts but...
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; Nov 16, 2022 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
I have the same issue with my Dan Thayer pump and just deal with it. It's a far superior pump and the dual port scavenging ensures the crank is never swimming in oil. The stock pump leaves 6 to 8oz in there minimum. It also keeps a constant vacuum.
you could always pinch off the oil feec line while it's sitting. I know djl does this. Im going to put a shut off valve in mine I think.
This makes sense in a 'I'm blonde so keep it simple' kinda way - but, I am blonde, so I could see myself forgetting to rotate that shut-off before firing up the bike; I know I forget the fuel petcock enough as-is.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Zedbra
This makes sense in a 'I'm blonde so keep it simple' kinda way - but, I am blonde, so I could see myself forgetting to rotate that shut-off before firing up the bike; I know I forget the fuel petcock enough as-is.
This is a valid concern that would have devastating consequences. I'm not recommending anyone do this.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 11:53 AM
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I'm going to double-check my cables. I have a funny feeling I might have stupidly used blue loctite on the starter connections... Hopefully this will be an easy fix. Thank you for the suggestions! I will provide follow-up.
 
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