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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Hello guys, Ive been on here for a little bit and have learned a lot, THANKS!
I got a 2001 Road King from my dad after he was unable to ride anymore. It sat for about 15 years and only has 22,000. I put new fuel lines, inside and out, new fuel pump, filter and new spark plugs.
Riding home from work one day, I started hearing a noise that sounded like it was from the rear cylinder, a ticking type sound. It was inconsistent and would stop at times then come back. I took it to a couple local bike shops and let them listen to it, they both suggested to change the lifters.
So, I ordered S&S lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods and put those in. The noise doesnt seem to be as loud now but its still there.
just did a compression check last night and in the front cylinder I got 140 and in the rear cylinder I got 130. Are those acceptable numbers? Ive been thinking it could be valve related or valve spring related. Also, while I change the lifters and pushrods, I put rocker lockers in.
has anyone came across the inner valve spring coming loose somehow and rattling? The Bike has no loss of power just that annoying noise thats started out of nowhere.
sorry for being a book for my first post, thanks in advance
I had a 2000 e-glide which had the 2 piece valve springs. I had a similar scenario where out of nowhere, the thing would tick like hell and then just stop. Drove me crazy. After pulling the rocker box covers, I found that one of the inner springs was broken in half. I guess its a good thing I never pinned it to the bars and dropped a valve.
Hello guys, Ive been on here for a little bit and have learned a lot, THANKS!
I got a 2001 Road King from my dad after he was unable to ride anymore. It sat for about 15 years and only has 22,000. I put new fuel lines, inside and out, new fuel pump, filter and new spark plugs. Riding home from work one day, I started hearing a noise that sounded like it was from the rear cylinder, a ticking type sound. It was inconsistent and would stop at times then come back. I took it to a couple local bike shops and let them listen to it, they both suggested to change the lifters.
So, I ordered S&S lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods and put those in. The noise doesnt seem to be as loud now but its still there.
just did a compression check last night and in the front cylinder I got 140 and in the rear cylinder I got 130. Are those acceptable numbers? Ive been thinking it could be valve related or valve spring related. Also, while I change the lifters and pushrods, I put rocker lockers in.
has anyone came across the inner valve spring coming loose somehow and rattling? The Bike has no loss of power just that annoying noise thats started out of nowhere.
You didn't mention cleaning the carb along with replacing fuel lines, fuel pump, etc. so I assume the bike is fuel injected? If you adjusted the new pushrods per S&S instructions, the lifter preload is probably about .100" most are setting preload at .125"-.140" today; not saying that's a problem, just a tip. At 22k miles, I would be pulling the cover to the cam chest and checking the chain tensioners. Take a look and post some pictures.
You didn't mention cleaning the carb along with replacing fuel lines, fuel pump, etc. so I assume the bike is fuel injected? If you adjusted the new pushrods per S&S instructions, the lifter preload is probably about .100" most are setting preload at .125"-.140" today; not saying that's a problem, just a tip. At 22k miles, I would be pulling the cover to the cam chest and checking the chain tensioners. Take a look and post some pictures.
it is fuel injected, changed fuel pump and filter. I did adjust the pushrods per S&S instructions.
I forgot to mention that I did check cam tensioners and there is no wear, they look brand new.
I had a 2000 e-glide which had the 2 piece valve springs. I had a similar scenario where out of nowhere, the thing would tick like hell and then just stop. Drove me crazy. After pulling the rocker box covers, I found that one of the inner springs was broken in half. I guess its a good thing I never pinned it to the bars and dropped a valve.
Ok, so it can happen. I was hoping to check the valve springs without taking the head off
You can get the rocker boxes off to inspect, but you have to hold the valve closed while removing the valve spring it it reqired a replacement. Otherwise it will fall into the cylinder.
You can use a compressor to pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve closed, but it's not going to be easy to get the top valve collar and keepers off without removing the head. I've seen special tools to do that, but have never used then and can't comment on how well they work on an HD engine in the frame.
You can get the rocker boxes off to inspect, but you have to hold the valve closed while removing the valve spring it it reqired a replacement. Otherwise it will fall into the cylinder.
You can use a compressor to pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve closed, but it's not going to be easy to get the top valve collar and keepers off without removing the head. I've seen special tools to do that, but have never used then and can't comment on how well they work on an HD engine in the frame.
Paul
I saw that tool to change the springs without removing the head but I cant justify spending $185 to use it once.
Before jumping off any deeper long sitting old lifters can be erratic, they were iffy on the early twinkies to start with. Consider new ones if adding a hair more preload on the suspected ticker doesn’t help before pulling heads or other extreme antics.
Before jumping off any deeper long sitting old lifters can be erratic, they were iffy on the early twinkies to start with. Consider new ones if adding a hair more preload on the suspected ticker doesnt help before pulling heads or other extreme antics.
I put in new S&S lifters, and S&S adjustable pushrods
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Compression reading
