I have wondered if you could measure runnout on sprocket side rather than pinion, I tend to have that side exposed more. But the numbers were different. Fresh rebuild crank, 2007, no timken

Harley changed specs to .010 at some point, my manual I believe was .005, less than .010, I know that. With changes maybe it really doesn't matter. I don't know.

pinion .0004 sprocket .0005. Pinionshaft at cam support plate .0008. I suppose farther out from the center the greater it would be. Don't hear lots of discussion on where on the shaft measure, or I atleast I didn't.


Just thought people might find these interesting, or know more about it then me too. Was rebuilt due bad bearings on crank. Took out pin, so pin was replace. Rods replaced due to age. Did I have to, I don't know. But solid now.


Measured .007 at pinion side before rebuild.

 

You're asking if one side run out should be the same as the other side runout?
Not sure what you're asking here.......not really clear.......not that you ever are!!
Please be more specific in your question with out all the babble of wondering about things.

 

I am just sharing my specs after a rebuild. Before this I considered measuring from sprocket side. I will have to look in manual, maybe there is a spec listed for sprocket and pinion.

Just making conversation. I thought some might find it interesting, my first crank rebuild. I have pressed apart timken era crank to inspect a couple. But not a lot of experience in bottom end. I will say, it is not as big of deal as people make it out to be. Sealing up the cases is a little nerve racking like doing woodworking glue up. Ha.


No point at all. Move along if you are looking to a morale to this story

 

Not looking for a morale(MORAL moron), looking for substance , or a question, or anything sane like that.
You're thinking that one side runout will have something to do with/or affect the other side of the shaft?
You're thinking that .007 runout on the sprocket side shaft will be okay for the pinion side without measuring it?

 

Yeah, like you said Rounders....... check your manual. I think your specs will be in there like mine are. The specs don't differentiate between the sprocket side and the pinion side. Same runout measurement.

 

f course you can measure the sprocket shaft.

 

Well the sprocket and pinion are different. As I said I have wondered if you could measure sprocket. And as I said you could look for a spec, I have read that section, as noted harley has opened it up. Does it matter with chains??

So they varied on my rebuilt crank. and varied at cam plate. Never heard reference to cam plate. But as I also said father you go out, the more you would see a difference.


I was talking to another shop, he said run out is what it was when left the factory, unless you locked brakes up on hard stop. so maybe mine left at .007, which is under harleys new spec that came out after my manuall. But it was the stickie rods that cause me to rebuild.

 

The other point to this is, the farther out you go, it should open up. Which is what I think there are saying when they give the spec at cam plate. So if measuring at sprocket or pinion, would need to be the same distance out?? But is that possible? And what point does it make difference?

 

Not necessarily. This 4-5/8 crank from DH I received last year was 0.0005 at the pinion bearing surface, and 0.0004 at the cam plate.
The sprocket shaft was 0.0006 at the bearing surface and when I checked it after putting the crank in the case I was still 0.0006 but at the end of the sprocket shaft, as shown in the above photo.

 

1. To be clear, I am assuming the values you are providing are the measurements Dark Horse provided when they returned your rebuilt Crank, you make no mention of how or who took these measurements.

2. Why not post up a picture of the tag/ticket Dark Horse provided (like Ohio HD provided) so folks do not think it is you taking the measurements.

3. Instead of asking a bunch of worthless questions, wondering, supposition, and thinking out loud; recommend you discuss these things with Dark Horse, then come and provide real answers.

NOTE:
The above information, while credible, is worth what you paid for it and should not be considered gospel.
Do due diligence, research and have a H-D Field Service Manual before working on your bike.
You will probably have many opinions and suggestions presented; make sure you research the person providing the helpful information as there are some who provide good information and some who speak out of other orifices with gibberish. You will figure out this quickly.