EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Ignition coil testing

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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by D_gyver
did you not see my post you dont check the ground you check the secondary from the negative terminal on the coil to the plug wire socket both sides.
I did not see this, somehow missed it.
But the picture you sent is worth a thousand words!!!! When I go to lunch, I'll check it out per your picture.

thanks a bunch for that!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:30 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kp877
Back to the beginning here, you haven't checked the run switch and it ran fine and now doesn't. You sure you didn't flip it by mistake?
That was the first thing I checked. I've only flipped it to off once or twice since i've had the bike, and only to see if it would kill it because the previous owner told me the switch was inoperable and no need to use it. It won't cut off when flipped but will prevent bike from cranking if in off position.

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:03 AM
  #33  
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We had someone else with that same kill switch problem recently. A DPO had done a hack wiring job on the terminal block under the seat when one of the connectors broke off. I think that was a softtail. Look for the thread here. And the fact that someone has been hacking up your wiring harness introduces more potential problems. Did you ever check to see if you have +12V at the coil, like I suggested above?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Did you ever check to see if you have +12V at the coil, like I suggested above?
Not yet, Doc... I need to put the coil back on today after work.. Last night I had previous plans I couldn't break (NBA playoff game, Go Grizzlies!) but tonight I will definitely check it out.
Thanks for all of your input, I sincerely appreciate it.

If only you were in Memphis!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:52 AM
  #35  
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Stealth, I'd leave the plugs out and hit the button and watch for Sparks and while doing that fiddle with the run stop switch. I think you have a loose wire somewhere. I guess you could check it for 12v at the coil doing the same but I like to see the spark
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
We had someone else with that same kill switch problem recently. A DPO had done a hack wiring job on the terminal block under the seat when one of the connectors broke off. I think that was a softtail. Look for the thread here. And the fact that someone has been hacking up your wiring harness introduces more potential problems. Did you ever check to see if you have +12V at the coil, like I suggested above?
Yeah that was my FXWG......
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:54 PM
  #37  
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Just one of those things we must all live with. I'm tolerant of the lesser intelligence's mistakes.

LOL

Just like flying, who do you trust Newton or Bernoulli ? Sometime they both work, and sometime they both fail.

Being old and close to dead, I don't have time to troubleshoot an electrical problem. New components is the easier route for me.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 10:13 PM
  #38  
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I'm not getting any spark from my coil also. 12v to the center post and the ohm meter reads 12 on the front and rear posts also. White wire in the center goes back to the timing and pink on the front and blue in the rear. Weird.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 09:16 AM
  #39  
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Aftermarket ignition module gone bad?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Next, with the meter set on a high scale, like something around 20K Ohms or 100K ohms, put one lead on one of the high voltage connections (where the spark plug wires go.) With the other lead, touch some metal on the coil that would bolt to the chassis (a ground)
Doc, I recall looking into this and coming to realize that there is no chassis ground on HD secondary coils. It's all plastic. The high voltage coil is grounded through the positive terminal on single fire coils. When the potential is ~20,000 volts, ground looks the same as 12 volts.

Dual fire coils also have no ground as the high voltage potential is between both plug wires.
 
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