Ignition coil testing
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
Likes: 444
From: Ohio
This terminology gets even mor confusing since several different ignition manufactures use reverse definitions from HD.
From twintec
"Single fire and dual fire refers to the number of times the spark plug fires during each four stroke cycle. The terminology is somewhat unique to Harley-DavidsonŽ engines and is by no means consistently applied. For example, Custom Chrome Industries, one of the largest distributors of Harley-DavidsonŽ aftermarket parts, uses the opposite terminology. Their single fire systems correspond to what most other companies refer to as dual fire. "http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tech_evo.html
From twintec
"Single fire and dual fire refers to the number of times the spark plug fires during each four stroke cycle. The terminology is somewhat unique to Harley-DavidsonŽ engines and is by no means consistently applied. For example, Custom Chrome Industries, one of the largest distributors of Harley-DavidsonŽ aftermarket parts, uses the opposite terminology. Their single fire systems correspond to what most other companies refer to as dual fire. "http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tech_evo.html
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
This terminology gets even mor confusing since several different ignition manufactures use reverse definitions from HD.
From twintec
"Single fire and dual fire refers to the number of times the spark plug fires during each four stroke cycle. The terminology is somewhat unique to Harley-DavidsonŽ engines and is by no means consistently applied. For example, Custom Chrome Industries, one of the largest distributors of Harley-DavidsonŽ aftermarket parts, uses the opposite terminology. Their single fire systems correspond to what most other companies refer to as dual fire. "http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tech_evo.html
From twintec
"Single fire and dual fire refers to the number of times the spark plug fires during each four stroke cycle. The terminology is somewhat unique to Harley-DavidsonŽ engines and is by no means consistently applied. For example, Custom Chrome Industries, one of the largest distributors of Harley-DavidsonŽ aftermarket parts, uses the opposite terminology. Their single fire systems correspond to what most other companies refer to as dual fire. "http://www.daytona-twintec.com/tech_evo.html
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,198
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From: NW AR
Tell them it's just like a 97 Toyota Camry, 1 and 4, 2 and 3.
See? I had it right all along, just as long as you use the Custom Chrome terminology.
OK, stealthisthought. We need a tad bit more info. I'm going with "your coil is just fine." What kind of ignition system do you have? Some kind of aftermarket? Is it a Crane Cams that all sits inside the cone? (I will not mention here that Crane Cams, maker of that ignition went bankrupt, and that must have happened for a reason...) If so, that's your problem. Get one of those ultima or dyna's and you'll be good to go.
See? I had it right all along, just as long as you use the Custom Chrome terminology.
OK, stealthisthought. We need a tad bit more info. I'm going with "your coil is just fine." What kind of ignition system do you have? Some kind of aftermarket? Is it a Crane Cams that all sits inside the cone? (I will not mention here that Crane Cams, maker of that ignition went bankrupt, and that must have happened for a reason...) If so, that's your problem. Get one of those ultima or dyna's and you'll be good to go.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 23
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From: Memphis, TN.
OK, stealthisthought. We need a tad bit more info. I'm going with "your coil is just fine." What kind of ignition system do you have? Some kind of aftermarket? Is it a Crane Cams that all sits inside the cone? (I will not mention here that Crane Cams, maker of that ignition went bankrupt, and that must have happened for a reason...) If so, that's your problem. Get one of those ultima or dyna's and you'll be good to go.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,198
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
Getting a proper ground to test for the high voltage side can be a bit tricky. Also, you have two coils there in your hand. The probability of both high voltage coils going bad at the same time seems a bit low to me. What were the symptoms on the bike? Was it running on one cylinder or no spark on either? I'm still going with the module. Do a google on the site here with that ignition model and a few years ago there must have been 20 threads of that thing breaking. Yes, S&S bought them, but that was after the bankruptcy.
Do this: With the coil on the bike and all wired up, put your volt meter on one of the negative terminals and ground. You should see some fluctuations in the voltage as the ignition module grounds out the coil and opens to fire the spark when you crank it. If you see no fluctuations, the module is bad. An analog meter would probably be easier, but try different DC scales on a digital meter if that's what you have to work with.
Do this: With the coil on the bike and all wired up, put your volt meter on one of the negative terminals and ground. You should see some fluctuations in the voltage as the ignition module grounds out the coil and opens to fire the spark when you crank it. If you see no fluctuations, the module is bad. An analog meter would probably be easier, but try different DC scales on a digital meter if that's what you have to work with.
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 23
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From: Memphis, TN.
Getting a proper ground to test for the high voltage side can be a bit tricky. Also, you have two coils there in your hand. The probability of both high voltage coils going bad at the same time seems a bit low to me. What were the symptoms on the bike?
Do this: With the coil on the bike and all wired up, put your volt meter on one of the negative terminals and ground. You should see some fluctuations in the voltage as the ignition module grounds out the coil and opens to fire the spark when you crank it. If you see no fluctuations, the module is bad. An analog meter would probably be easier, but try different DC scales on a digital meter if that's what you have to work with.
Do this: With the coil on the bike and all wired up, put your volt meter on one of the negative terminals and ground. You should see some fluctuations in the voltage as the ignition module grounds out the coil and opens to fire the spark when you crank it. If you see no fluctuations, the module is bad. An analog meter would probably be easier, but try different DC scales on a digital meter if that's what you have to work with.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
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From: Ohio
This is not the end of the world. Carefully follow the steps necessary to diagnose the problem. Doc is one of our electricity gurus. He will lead you out of the woods towards the light. 
LOL
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
Well, sucks to have things like that happen, but I have found that when buying used vehicles, there is always something that needs to be addressed. Even the used Lexus I bought from a Lexus dealer needed a few things.
When you say you used a receptacle as a ground, what exactly are you saying? That's kinda not possible. By ground, I mean the body of that coil where it bolts to the frame, or the motor with everything bolted on and wired up. Also make sure your meter is on a high ohms scale. It will show open if you use a low scale.
Confirm you are getting +12V to the positive side on that coil. Do the negative side test like I said. Then buy an ultima ignition and a different coil (the coil they come with is rumored to not be very good, but the ignition is said to be a good one.) You could even try the new ignition with that existing coil, as I believe it will do the non-waste spark configuration, but I'll defer that to the ultima experts. I run a Screaming Eagle ignition myself.
I mean what are you other choices here? Buy another coil and still not have the bike run, then buy a new ignition module? Also, there comes a time when you find you are in over your head and you should find an indy to fix it for you. I can't see them charging more than an hour labor plus parts.
When you say you used a receptacle as a ground, what exactly are you saying? That's kinda not possible. By ground, I mean the body of that coil where it bolts to the frame, or the motor with everything bolted on and wired up. Also make sure your meter is on a high ohms scale. It will show open if you use a low scale.
Confirm you are getting +12V to the positive side on that coil. Do the negative side test like I said. Then buy an ultima ignition and a different coil (the coil they come with is rumored to not be very good, but the ignition is said to be a good one.) You could even try the new ignition with that existing coil, as I believe it will do the non-waste spark configuration, but I'll defer that to the ultima experts. I run a Screaming Eagle ignition myself.
I mean what are you other choices here? Buy another coil and still not have the bike run, then buy a new ignition module? Also, there comes a time when you find you are in over your head and you should find an indy to fix it for you. I can't see them charging more than an hour labor plus parts.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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I think you're getting good advice on testing from Dr Hess, but I think you need to start over here. Have you actually confirmed no spark either with a spark tester or by turning it over holding the spark plug to the engine when you're attempting to start? Are all of your run switches in run and not stop? I don't see where you actually tested for a spark?
If you did and you have confirmed no spark at all from either plug, have you checked to make sure you're getting 12 volts to the coil?
Your bike might have a run stop switch that allows it to turn over and not fire either miswired or a user theft deterent type of switch. I've seen both on other makes. I'd check for a spark and power to the coil during ignition before I did anything else.
Is there a fuse anywhere that would need a check that would allow power to the starter and not to the coil?
If you did and you have confirmed no spark at all from either plug, have you checked to make sure you're getting 12 volts to the coil?
Your bike might have a run stop switch that allows it to turn over and not fire either miswired or a user theft deterent type of switch. I've seen both on other makes. I'd check for a spark and power to the coil during ignition before I did anything else.
Is there a fuse anywhere that would need a check that would allow power to the starter and not to the coil?