Ignition coil testing
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
Well, sucks to have things like that happen, but I have found that when buying used vehicles, there is always something that needs to be addressed. Even the used Lexus I bought from a Lexus dealer needed a few things.
When you say you used a receptacle as a ground, what exactly are you saying? That's kinda not possible. By ground, I mean the body of that coil where it bolts to the frame, or the motor with everything bolted on and wired up. Also make sure your meter is on a high ohms scale. It will show open if you use a low scale.
Confirm you are getting +12V to the positive side on that coil. Do the negative side test like I said. Then buy an ultima ignition and a different coil (the coil they come with is rumored to not be very good, but the ignition is said to be a good one.) You could even try the new ignition with that existing coil, as I believe it will do the non-waste spark configuration, but I'll defer that to the ultima experts. I run a Screaming Eagle ignition myself.
I mean what are you other choices here? Buy another coil and still not have the bike run, then buy a new ignition module? Also, there comes a time when you find you are in over your head and you should find an indy to fix it for you. I can't see them charging more than an hour labor plus parts.
When you say you used a receptacle as a ground, what exactly are you saying? That's kinda not possible. By ground, I mean the body of that coil where it bolts to the frame, or the motor with everything bolted on and wired up. Also make sure your meter is on a high ohms scale. It will show open if you use a low scale.
Confirm you are getting +12V to the positive side on that coil. Do the negative side test like I said. Then buy an ultima ignition and a different coil (the coil they come with is rumored to not be very good, but the ignition is said to be a good one.) You could even try the new ignition with that existing coil, as I believe it will do the non-waste spark configuration, but I'll defer that to the ultima experts. I run a Screaming Eagle ignition myself.
I mean what are you other choices here? Buy another coil and still not have the bike run, then buy a new ignition module? Also, there comes a time when you find you are in over your head and you should find an indy to fix it for you. I can't see them charging more than an hour labor plus parts.
Originally Posted by stealthisthought:
"man, this is all brand new to me. here's what i removed, from + to either - it's reading 4.. but from where the either spark plug wire goes to a ground (in a standard 20a receptacle in the wall even) I get nothing. zilch. Not confident that I'm doing it right".
Dr Hess is talking a good ground on your bike...
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
Symptoms: none really. Went to crank after bike was sitting for a few hours and flooded it. Drained carb, new plugs, realized it's not getting any fire. Was told it would have to be either the ignition coil or the ignition. Took the coil off to test. Ground I used on the high volt side; engine and even tried the ground in a receptacle. I have no idea what I'm doing. Had this particular bike exactly 1 week, I want to be on it and riding it. If it's the ignition, I wouldn't know where to start or how much to expect spending on a fix. Bummed out.
did you flip the run switch back on?
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN.
Have you actually confirmed no spark either with a spark tester or by turning it over holding the spark plug to the engine when you're attempting to start? YES
Are all of your run switches in run and not stop?
YES
I don't see where you actually tested for a spark? Tested by holding spark plug to engine when attempting to start, nothing on either plug.
If you did and you have confirmed no spark at all from either plug, have you checked to make sure you're getting 12 volts to the coil? How do I do that?
Your bike might have a run stop switch that allows it to turn over and not fire either miswired or a user theft deterent type of switch. I've seen both on other makes. I'd check for a spark and power to the coil during ignition before I did anything else.
Is there a fuse anywhere that would need a check that would allow power to the starter and not to the coil?
Are all of your run switches in run and not stop?
YES
I don't see where you actually tested for a spark? Tested by holding spark plug to engine when attempting to start, nothing on either plug.
If you did and you have confirmed no spark at all from either plug, have you checked to make sure you're getting 12 volts to the coil? How do I do that?
Your bike might have a run stop switch that allows it to turn over and not fire either miswired or a user theft deterent type of switch. I've seen both on other makes. I'd check for a spark and power to the coil during ignition before I did anything else.
Is there a fuse anywhere that would need a check that would allow power to the starter and not to the coil?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,327
Likes: 3,614
From: Picayune, Ms.
What I find that confuses people is the term "Ground". There is "NO" ground on a DC system. It is a closed loop, so ground should be "close the loop"
Ground should only apply to A/C power.
DC power has electron voltage travel from the "-" terminal on the battery to the "+" terminal of the battery. It does this by using the "frame" of the bike as one large wire and a whole bunch of smaller wires to control individual components.
AC power travels back and fourth to the alternator using one wire and the planet Earth. You could operate all electrical equipment in your house with one wire. So the ground wire in a wall outlet goes directly to the planet. Thus the term "ground".
To the problem: Throw the coil and ignition system away and install a new one. Done in one. Dual fire is stock, go with that, and stop pissing in the wind :-)
Ground should only apply to A/C power.
DC power has electron voltage travel from the "-" terminal on the battery to the "+" terminal of the battery. It does this by using the "frame" of the bike as one large wire and a whole bunch of smaller wires to control individual components.
AC power travels back and fourth to the alternator using one wire and the planet Earth. You could operate all electrical equipment in your house with one wire. So the ground wire in a wall outlet goes directly to the planet. Thus the term "ground".
To the problem: Throw the coil and ignition system away and install a new one. Done in one. Dual fire is stock, go with that, and stop pissing in the wind :-)
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN.
hahaha! i tried grounding to the engine, using a Fluke T5-600 electrical tester, put one lead on high volt and one to engine. no reading. I was making a joke about the 20a receptacle.. I did have a co-worker tell me to test it with the ground on a receptacle because "you know that's a good ground".
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
hahaha! i tried grounding to the engine, using a Fluke T5-600 electrical tester, put one lead on high volt and one to engine. no reading. I was making a joke about the 20a receptacle.. I did have a co-worker tell me to test it with the ground on a receptacle because "you know that's a good ground".
Last edited by D_gyver; Apr 23, 2015 at 06:55 AM.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 30
From: North Florida
What I find that confuses people is the term "Ground". There is "NO" ground on a DC system. It is a closed loop, so ground should be "close the loop"
Ground should only apply to A/C power.
DC power has electron voltage travel from the "-" terminal on the battery to the "+" terminal of the battery. It does this by using the "frame" of the bike as one large wire and a whole bunch of smaller wires to control individual components.
AC power travels back and fourth to the alternator using one wire and the planet Earth. You could operate all electrical equipment in your house with one wire. So the ground wire in a wall outlet goes directly to the planet. Thus the term "ground".
To the problem: Throw the coil and ignition system away and install a new one. Done in one. Dual fire is stock, go with that, and stop pissing in the wind :-)
Ground should only apply to A/C power.
DC power has electron voltage travel from the "-" terminal on the battery to the "+" terminal of the battery. It does this by using the "frame" of the bike as one large wire and a whole bunch of smaller wires to control individual components.
AC power travels back and fourth to the alternator using one wire and the planet Earth. You could operate all electrical equipment in your house with one wire. So the ground wire in a wall outlet goes directly to the planet. Thus the term "ground".
To the problem: Throw the coil and ignition system away and install a new one. Done in one. Dual fire is stock, go with that, and stop pissing in the wind :-)
