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So for the last couple of months I started to purchase pretty much everything I need to hopefully finish out everything I've ever wanted for my 98 Fatboy. Thanx to langwilliams the OEM shocks made a huge difference. Thank you brother....
First off, let me tell you it was only 26* today and the garage I have my bikes in does not have heat.. I was out there from 10:30 am to 4:00 pm. Yes I felt it and said just keep moving...
So i wanted to go back to a belt on the secondary and purchased a new S&S 1 1/8" belt on eBay for $157.00 and found a 70 tooth pulley off of a 2006 Dyna $36.00. I also purchased the S&S G and had a ThunderJet installed. I like the idea of 3 jets...
I also need new rotors, the matching ones that came with my rims from Southern motorcycle works went to **** way to quick, Floaters. The centerpieces are made of aluminum and wore out at the rivets allowing the braking disk to rotate 3/32. They didn't want to help me out so I purchased new 1 piece rotors from Jireh cycles, $68.00 each delivered.
Still working on trying to remedy my problems with my primary drive. It appears there was a mix of old and new parts so I'm still waiting on that.
I also decided to go with a Baker OD6 builders kit with the N1 shift drum. Waiting for a quote from Mark...
last but not least I also installed a new S&S. hvhp oil pump. I had a scavenging issue the last time I had the bike out. The case was filling up with oil and was pushed out at the crank shaft seal. I was idling at a gas station and within a couple of minutes I had a puddle the size baseball. I checked the oil level and it was down 3/4 of a quart. I'm pretty sure it was problem because the next day the oil sumped again back to the case...
So waiting on some parts but will be back together by spring....
Primary removed and sent out for repairs.. I put the OEM trans back in to check the belt alignment, what I didn't take a pic of was with the rear tire and pulley... Ooopppsss......
By the way I love my new Craftsmen Jack... $109.00... well worth it..
As parts come in I'll update....
That's about it for now.
You will love the Baker, going to kick yourself in the butt wondering why you didn't get one earlier but the quality will be noticed right away.
Used the AllsBalls sealed bearing on the trans shaft, Sachs wasn't a big fan of them but didn't have to mess with that pain in the azz seal and sleeve, holding up well.
You will love the Baker, going to kick yourself in the butt wondering why you didn't get one earlier but the quality will be noticed right away.
Used the AllsBalls sealed bearing on the trans shaft, Sachs wasn't a big fan of them but didn't have to mess with that pain in the azz seal and sleeve, holding up well.
Yea, I should have done it a long time ago.... Very excited.... One less thing to worry about...
Originally Posted by Beemervet
Interested to hear what you think of the shifter drum.
I love the fact that neutral will not be an issue anymore. I wish they made a N1 drum to shift up by the toe and down shift by the heal.. as I believe it's the opposite...
I don't know if the DD6 is gonna act like the DD5 but my DD5 took a while before it broke in and started shifting like butter.
Baker says their trannys don't need a break in but mine did.
i would think any gear set needs a couple of miles to play well together.... It's gonna be an OD6. I upped my 1:1 ratio to a 3.37 gear.
One thing I thought was a little weird was that I thought the drive belts were directional. Didn't see any marking on the S&S belt except for their part number so I put it on so one can read it normally and not upside down...
When I mocked up the rear tire, pulley and belt to the old trans I did not have the shocks installed and when I lowered the bike I could believe how tight the belt got with the rear suspension up.... Starting to wonder if that's what caused the other 2 belts to brake... Any one ever notice that on their Softail?
i would think any gear set needs a couple of miles to play well together.... It's gonna be an OD6. I upped my 1:1 ratio to a 3.37
Good ratio, 6th gear will still pull as hard as the rest of them, remains RPM friendly at 70-75. You can throttle roll lower in the rpms and use the engines torque with 3.37 gearing but be ready to shift when it spins up because it won't come back down when shifting until you get out of it.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 15, 2018 at 07:47 PM.
If you dont mind my asking, why a Super G not an E? Got her punched out already? Also: Get ya a damn space heater! :-)
I currently have the E on it. It's way to small, the motor falls on it's face at 5100 rpm. My heads flow 283 cfm. Oh and believe it or not the cold really doesn't bother me all that much..... Just have another beer... LOL....
Originally Posted by 1997bagger
Good ratio, 6th gear will still pull as hard as the rest of them, remains RPM friendly at 70-75. You can throttle roll lower in the rpms and use the engines torque with 3.37 gearing but be ready to shift when it spins up because it won't come back down when shifting until you get out of it.
Believe me I am way too familiar with the 3.37 gearing. Remember my quest for 3 HP and the crank pin sheared? Yea it was a 3.37 then.... After I went to the 96" I lowered to a 3.20 and in 6th the rpm's were a tad low at 70, 2650 rpm...
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Necessary Changes....
