Bad crank
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Napoleon ND
Bad crank
Well, my son took his first big trip and took out the crank. Front crank bearing is loose and rear is tight. Question is, do I do a stock bottom end or think about a stroker crank. Haven't checked into any pricing. Just ripped it down today. Was hoping it was a rod bearing but no such luck. The rest of the motor is a fresh rebuild but I don't think they touched the bottom end. Bought it that way. It's a 98 road King. Thought he might have rattled it with some bad fuel cause the one plug looked real white but piston looks fine.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Ohio
The S&S 4 5/8 is a great option, a 89" in a bagger works well, only problem is if your RK is fuel injection then you are at a crossroads with EFI fuel control mods or change to a carb.
Years ago I did the 4 5/8's and tried to battle the M&M and ran out of fuel delivery, did the carb conversion and no comparison on performance with a CV or Mikuni.
If you have EFI and not interested in changing to a carb then your decision is easily made, most likely could get Dark Horse/Hoban Bros rebuild your crank and will be solid that way also. Little work of advice, pull that pan off the bottom of the trans, it will have metal in it. The pan will come out and you'll be glad you did.
Years ago I did the 4 5/8's and tried to battle the M&M and ran out of fuel delivery, did the carb conversion and no comparison on performance with a CV or Mikuni.
If you have EFI and not interested in changing to a carb then your decision is easily made, most likely could get Dark Horse/Hoban Bros rebuild your crank and will be solid that way also. Little work of advice, pull that pan off the bottom of the trans, it will have metal in it. The pan will come out and you'll be glad you did.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Napoleon ND
It’s carb so we are good there. Will check into the stroker option. If we are gonna spend the money anyway might as well do the stroker. Looks like it already has some kind of aftermarket clutch so that will be good.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Tampa
So help me out here. Where are the front and rear crank bearings? You talking the bearings on the big end of the rods that are on the crank pin? I've never heard of those referred to as front and rear.
Also, FYI, stroker cranks require special stroker pistons, and while in there you midas well get some 10 over pistons with a fresh bore.
Also, FYI, stroker cranks require special stroker pistons, and while in there you midas well get some 10 over pistons with a fresh bore.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Napoleon ND
The rod going to the front cylinder and rod to the back cylinder. I can take the front rod and it is loose on the crank. It will get all freshened up for sure. Have to have the heads checked at least the front. The valves touched the piston when it got loose. The motor sure doesn't look like it has a fresh rebuild like the previous owner said. Pistons have some scuffing and plenty of carbon build up on top. Way more than what miles are supposedly on the motor.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Napoleon ND
So, I've been checking out the S&S website. Looks like the 4 5/8 wheels are a little under $1300 and the 96" kit with the cylinders and Pistons is $1999. Is there a downside going to the 96. I will have the expense of pistons and a cylinder bore anyway. Looks to be a better deal going that route.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
Your gonna have to bore the cases to accept the spigots of the 3 5/8 cylinder bore. Other than that you should be good to go. That combination will easily pump 105/105.... With the right cam and stage II heads...
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Are you set up to do the assembly yourself? The reason I ask is if you look at the total machine shop bill if you send this out, and figure you're going to want to open up the heads and freshen the valves (with either the stroker or the 96), plus whatever else you run into (this all started with a "fresh rebuild" that obviously wasn't all that well done, so there's no telling what else needs fixing) , plus the cost of the major components you've already mentioned, you're going to end up well on your way to V111 money.
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From: Poolville
One more thing I forgot to add, If you want anything over 9.5:compression, I believe there's only one piston available to get up into the 10.0-11.0 range which is the Axtell 30* angle tops. Then there's the milling of the dome to get the proper compression for whatever cam you decide to use... It's all custom, not plug and play...
Omaha has a good idea!!!
Omaha has a good idea!!!
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Napoleon ND
Ya, I have already thought about the 111. Maybe I should just go that route. I know how this motor work stuff goes. Always hidden fees. Could just part out the motor. What little is left that's good.