Difference in balancing?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,554
Likes: 3,309
From: Cental, MI
^^^ Yea... for the newer stuff... which I don't fool with... When they no longer had 5 piece crank... I'm out...
But... I do Know a young man who does those ... He Bought our shop in Fact... You Don't need to be on the Internet to know Exactly What yer Doin!!!!
But... I do Know a young man who does those ... He Bought our shop in Fact... You Don't need to be on the Internet to know Exactly What yer Doin!!!!
Last edited by Racepres; Jul 18, 2019 at 11:16 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 819
From: Moneta, Virginia
I have no idea who "The Authority" is, but I find it useful to at least see how one person does this type of work since it's beyond my wheelhouse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFIIAu1GeZc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FohZ4XmVzVY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFIIAu1GeZc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FohZ4XmVzVY
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,315
Likes: 1,663
From: Tampa
Tatro also does a Twinkie crank, but you gotta search for it.
The TC cranks do come apart, you just need a good 20 tons of force on the crank pin. They are not welded from the factory (neither are S&S), but it takes a shitload of power to get them apart. It's also very crude how the flywheels are centered back to true. That process hasn't changed. You find where you need to align them on the truing stand, then WACK it with a large brass or lead mallet. Again, Tatro shows this on the TC crank video as well.
Lemme see if I can find it. I used to live in San Diego and he was recommended by a coworker, but Tatro works on his own schedule and I didn't want to wait 6 months for my engine to be done.
The TC cranks do come apart, you just need a good 20 tons of force on the crank pin. They are not welded from the factory (neither are S&S), but it takes a shitload of power to get them apart. It's also very crude how the flywheels are centered back to true. That process hasn't changed. You find where you need to align them on the truing stand, then WACK it with a large brass or lead mallet. Again, Tatro shows this on the TC crank video as well.
Lemme see if I can find it. I used to live in San Diego and he was recommended by a coworker, but Tatro works on his own schedule and I didn't want to wait 6 months for my engine to be done.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,862
Likes: 1,883
From: East Coast, USA
It's also very crude how the flywheels are centered back to true. That process hasn't changed. You find where you need to align them on the truing stand, then WACK it with a large brass or lead mallet. Again, Tatro shows this on the TC crank video as well.
Lemme see if I can find it. I used to live in San Diego and he was recommended by a coworker, but Tatro works on his own schedule and I didn't want to wait 6 months for my engine to be done.
Lemme see if I can find it. I used to live in San Diego and he was recommended by a coworker, but Tatro works on his own schedule and I didn't want to wait 6 months for my engine to be done.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,315
Likes: 1,663
From: Tampa
I'm really surprised he smacked the flywheel while it was in the truing stand. 
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,554
Likes: 3,309
From: Cental, MI
I'm really surprised he smacked the flywheel while it was in the truing stand.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
Yet my Partner smacked them in the Stand... always... he did release the tension on the Pivots [Centers]... but always hit 'em in the Stand..
Our stand is called an "80 pounder" for a reason....Can't see how it ever had any effect, on the Stand....
Last edited by Racepres; Jul 20, 2019 at 09:42 AM.