Difference in balancing?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,554
Likes: 3,309
From: Cental, MI
Thing about what you are trying to accomplish here... rotate one or the other Crank Half to align with the other... can't very well do that with it sitting on the bench... not very easy anyway... it must be suspended between centers in order to "turn" a wheel on a Shaft.. not turning much at all... but it is turning just the same..
Do The Job once...and it becomes very clear!!!!
Do The Job once...and it becomes very clear!!!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,554
Likes: 3,309
From: Cental, MI
Most of this process is outlined extremely well in the Shovelhead Service manuals of the day!!!
Course... so is a Valve job...and lots of folks don't get that even close to Correct either!!!!
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,077
Likes: 51,328
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
First off this whole thread and nobody clued yet the 89's a rigid mounted drivetrain and the 98 is rubber mounted, of course felt vibration at varying RPM's is going to feel like a balance issue.
Can you say DUH.....
I have the old school Rowe flywheel truing stand and you should never smack the wheels while in the jig, it can damage things. Myself I used to use a old chunk of oak planking to set the wheels on and a babbitt hammer I made to massage them as needed, wood walked off somewhere and I found a block of delrin plastic to replace it, like it better anyway, cleaner and no dust.
There's an art to doing a set of 5 pc wheels and getting them right and I will dial mine down to under .001" when I do them, book say .002" is ok I like as close to zero as I get them.
I also have a complete balancing set up including a pink granite and four decimal place machinist levels to stabilize & square things properly. While the knife edge rollers are the thing now I still like the precision ground parallels. More time consuming but I feel it's more accurate for motors that are going to abused some which mine are. Devils in the details and it takes time but can give you a shovel or evo flywheel set that can go 7000rpm.
Can you say DUH.....
I'm really surprised he smacked the flywheel while it was in the truing stand. 
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
There's an art to doing a set of 5 pc wheels and getting them right and I will dial mine down to under .001" when I do them, book say .002" is ok I like as close to zero as I get them.
I also have a complete balancing set up including a pink granite and four decimal place machinist levels to stabilize & square things properly. While the knife edge rollers are the thing now I still like the precision ground parallels. More time consuming but I feel it's more accurate for motors that are going to abused some which mine are. Devils in the details and it takes time but can give you a shovel or evo flywheel set that can go 7000rpm.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,554
Likes: 3,309
From: Cental, MI
First off this whole thread and nobody clued yet the 89's a rigid mounted drivetrain and the 98 is rubber mounted, of course felt vibration at varying RPM's is going to feel like a balance issue.
Can you say DUH.....
I have the old school Rowe flywheel truing stand and you should never smack the wheels while in the jig, it can damage things. Myself I used to use a old chunk of oak planking to set the wheels on and a babbitt hammer I made to massage them as needed, wood walked off somewhere and I found a block of delrin plastic to replace it, like it better anyway, cleaner and no dust.
There's an art to doing a set of 5 pc wheels and getting them right and I will dial mine down to under .001" when I do them, book say .002" is ok I like as close to zero as I get them.
I also have a complete balancing set up including a pink granite and four decimal place machinist levels to stabilize & square things properly. While the knife edge rollers are the thing now I still like the precision ground parallels. More time consuming but I feel it's more accurate for motors that are going to abused some which mine are. Devils in the details and it takes time but can give you a shovel or evo flywheel set that can go 7000rpm.
Can you say DUH.....
I have the old school Rowe flywheel truing stand and you should never smack the wheels while in the jig, it can damage things. Myself I used to use a old chunk of oak planking to set the wheels on and a babbitt hammer I made to massage them as needed, wood walked off somewhere and I found a block of delrin plastic to replace it, like it better anyway, cleaner and no dust.
There's an art to doing a set of 5 pc wheels and getting them right and I will dial mine down to under .001" when I do them, book say .002" is ok I like as close to zero as I get them.
I also have a complete balancing set up including a pink granite and four decimal place machinist levels to stabilize & square things properly. While the knife edge rollers are the thing now I still like the precision ground parallels. More time consuming but I feel it's more accurate for motors that are going to abused some which mine are. Devils in the details and it takes time but can give you a shovel or evo flywheel set that can go 7000rpm.
LMK what them 0 and 1 wheels measure when ya open it up after running awhile....BTDT
My Partner was **** like that ... even on the Dragbike, till I showed him that no matter how close it is when assembled...once ya run it {admittedly Run Hard] it ain't there no more... but, it don't move too much after that either...Kinda like spinning the Big end of the S&S supremes... gotta do it once... if yer ever gonna hold 'em...
Different story now...
Oh and wayyy back in post #2 I alluded to the differences in rubbermounted vs Solid... and in fact asked for facts about the MoCo policy on Balancing the EVO Mill...
Last edited by Racepres; Jul 20, 2019 at 05:19 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,862
Likes: 1,883
From: East Coast, USA
I'm really surprised he smacked the flywheel while it was in the truing stand.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
I remember reading instructions from S&S on that stand and it said to mark the flywheel, REMOVE IT from the stand, then depending on where you need to smack it you put one flywheel on a slightly elevated surface and smack the other so it's free to move.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
From: Alaska
I don't believe my 1998 Fatboy is rubber mounted.
Both bikes are rigid mount softies, right?