I think S&S removed that particular video.

 

It was actually a longer version of the one you put up there. They did the OEM crank, a welded OEM crank (which didn't hold any better than the OEM unwelded), and the S&S crank.

Kinda makes me wonder. Darkhorse uses this thing they call a "Pro Pin". It's said to be much better than OEM at preventing scissoring, but I'm wondering how it works and why it's so special.

 

I suspect they have over sized crankpins which would give a tighter interference press fit when assembling, they'd just match hone the rods to the new pin & rod rollers or have new rod sets already to size. Pretty much the only way you'll change the dynamic on press assembled cranks, different materials alone won't do it.

This is how you rebuilt the old 5 pc flywheels & rods before decent quality new rod sets became easily available & affordable.

 

I asked S&S about this missing YouTube video. They responded, "Issues with music, we will redo at a later date".

 

That would make sense, and leave the hole in the flywheel the same size so you need a 50T press to put the thing together.

Truing that thing must be a bitch tho

 

I saw a video moons a go of someone using a steel pin/dowel that went between the two flywheel pieces that spun off one another and created the unbalance. The pin/dowel goes in between the two once a correct balance has been achieved and then welded

 

I still have oversized rod bearings in .0001” increments in my parts stash, you’d be surprised the difference .0005” makes in a tight assembly.

For pressing & truing I’m sure they use a precision blanking die set that holds the wheel halves exactly true and parallel to each other. Almost bought one myself years ago, just didn’t do enough work to justify the money.

 

That’s what I’m talking about