98 Ultra with EFi. Been running great, 5k+ miles this summer and fall. Looks like riding weather is about over here in East Texas.

Would like to tackle a couple of issues. 1) Cold idle will not stay set done to FM specs... several times. Warm idle ok. No codes.

2) Last 400 miles or so Iifter noise is getting pronounced ( more than it was). So thinking new lifters and adjustable pushrods...adjustable so I don't have to pull top end.

3) Ride 2-up most of the time, and would like a little more grunt, a little less throttle to keep up speed going uphill. Thinking of a mild cam and new cam bearing and breather while in there.

Value you guy's experience for suggestions. Have K&N filter and dual Bassani 4" Ovals. Will the ecm/efi handle the new mild cam by itself and what cam? Thinking of swap to carb, but a bit over my head financially. Thanks. Ken

 

Look through the forum for the username "im". He seems like the go-to guy on those MM EFI systems. He's posted a good FAQ/howto type list on several occasions.

Lifters/ICB - Not a bad idea at all. Could save yourself some major headache.

What cam? Who knows. I don't know enough about the MM system to have any idea here. I do have the OEM "L" grind cam out of my '90 that's available if you're interested.

 

Most guys drop in an andrews EV13 or EV27 cam, the 13 is one of the better bagger cams. You didn't mention miles but if your goin in lifters are a given. I recently put the EV13 in my Dyna n it's a nice torquey cam.

 

Adjustable quick install pushrods will cost you about 150 bucks, but using the original pushrods will only cost you the price of a rocker box gasket set (about 30 dollars).

 

With my 1998 FLHTCUI.....

I use to set cold/hot idle per the service manual. I would use the scanalyzer and it would be good for several months. Then one day....the idle would be all screwed up.

Out on a trip....the idle screwed up. I had no service manual and no scanalyzer. But....I had a phone. Anyways....there’s a YouTube video showing a very good simple way to adjust the idle. That way was very easy and the idle hasn’t moved in over a year.

As for performance.....I had the SE air cleaner setup and the SE kit that came with the SE-3 cam, red injectors, and upgrade cartridge. I also installed new lifters and used adjustable pushrods.

Last year.....I installed the SE heads and flashed the ECM again. Even more power.

If I were on a budget.....
I would buy a used throttle body that came with red injectors off eBay cheap. Then buy a suitable cam. Then buy the cartridge to upgrade....usually cheap on eBay. Buy new lifters if old ones are questionable and reuse the OEM pushrods.

I have an ECM already flashed with that setup....so if you ever went that route. I would be willing to just swap ECM.

 

Thanks, gonna give that a try. Already replaced ETS, really don't want to drop another bill.

 

Do you have a throttle lock on the throttle? back the fast idle adjustment off the use throttle lock or inspect the stepper motor operation since you replaced the ETS, I know the erratic fast idle could be annoying when you needed to leave from somewhere needing to put the bike in gear, got more consistency out of the throttle lock. Did you pull the ECM fuse after setting everything?

EV13 is hard to beat in a bagger looking for some grunt, will need some fuel added by red injectors or Powercommander, the EV13 has a early intake valve closing and raising compression, you need some fuel. The SE kit is the SE3 mentioned being EV27 specs, red injectors supply more fuel and the flash cartrage raises the rev limiter only. If you don't want to buy injectors a PC3 can be purchased used supplying more fuel through a canned map from Dynojets website, it's not that hard to download maps. Will need new lifters with the cam install and kills one of the bucket list

 

Look for a cam that starts making ponies @ 2000 or so RPM's for a bagger, EV 27 is flat till 2700 and doesn't get strong till about 3400, targets lighter bikes. I'm not a big Andrews fan, check out VThunder cams by Competition cams. A few good choices for a fat bike and I find they run quieter than Andrews. EVL 3000 or 3010 work well.

Spec sheet,

https://www.vthunder.com/pub/media/w...alog4large.jpg

 

http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/EVOcams.htm

This is handy for comparing cams.

 

I have the same engine.

I'm running an EV-13 cam and stage I upgrade. Plenty of power. If you change the cam, change the inner cam bearing to the Torrington one. I didn't do the red injectors, or any upgrades to the stock ECM.

As far as the cold idle goes, it could be several things. The next time you have to adjust your idle screws, take them all the way out and put a few drops of blue locktite on them to keep them from wandering out of adjustment. You will still be able to turn them but they will be sticky.

There is a rebuild kit for the Throttle position sensor. It costs about $55 from HD. You get a new bearing with the kit that slides on the throttle shaft. Chances are your old bearing is really dirty and is difficult to move. That will wear out the little stepper motor which screws up the cold idle. Replace that assembly with the rebuild kit before you try to adjust anything. Now go and google the video on how to adjust the Throttle position sensor and go through that procedure. You will have to dig the epoxy out of the button head screws to make the adjustment. HD didn't think we were smart enough to adjust the TPS.

You have a new head temp sensor so all that's left is to adjust are the cold and hot idle speeds. Hot is easy. Run your bike around for 25 minutes then adjust the screw so the bike runs around 1,000 rpms. Done. For cold idle unplug the connector at the top of the Throttle position sensor. The bike now thinks it's cold. Adjust the cold idle screw til you get around 1,200 rpm. Now shut the bike down and pull the 5 and 15 amp fuses that are behind the right side cover. While you're waiting the required 30 minutes, you can reinstall that TPS connector. After time is up, replace the fuses and say a prayer. If everything went well, you should start at 1,200 rpm which will step down 2 times until you get to 1,000 rpm. I say "should" because there is a little bit of voodoo with the cold idle. It doesn't always work.

I keep a spare head temp sensor on hand. They don't last very long. Right now, I think mine is about half shot because the cold idle acts really weird. It drops real low then comes back up, then finally once the hot idle kicks in, the World is in order. I'll replace it when the thing just totally roaches. Don't adjust your idles to less than 1,000 rpm. It's really bad for the engine.

Carl